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Recent content by yanagi

New posts
  1. yanagi

    Navy Blazer Travel Tropicals – Fox Air, Standeven Explorer, Fresco III 14/15, Finmeresco, et cetera

    Fresco III 510244 is lighter than 14/15 oz but also heavier than the "default" 9/10 oz. I enjoy wearing both of my navy blazers and highly recommend both Tropicalair and Fresco III mock lenos. Of course, if your tailor has a suggestion or preference, I'd tend to defer to that!
  2. yanagi

    Navy Blazer Travel Tropicals – Fox Air, Standeven Explorer, Fresco III 14/15, Finmeresco, et cetera

    I've not tried any of the others. My other navy blazer is in Fresco III 510244: https://www.hfwltd.com/single_piece/510244 IMO it's a true, conservative navy but not "really dark midnight."
  3. yanagi

    Navy Blazer Travel Tropicals – Fox Air, Standeven Explorer, Fresco III 14/15, Finmeresco, et cetera

    I have a blazer in Dugdale Tropicalair 4612, which is a bright navy. If you want real midnight navy, try 4613: https://shop.dugdalebros.com/tropicalair/product/4612dug13872/colour/tropicalair_mockleno_plain_midnight/page/249/
  4. yanagi

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    I'm biased because I have 1 jacket from the same Neapolitan tailor ;) but IMO while both look great on you, I do think the Neapolitan one looks better. If I had to give a (subjective) reason why, I guess it's the shoulder; the Florentine one droops a bit.
  5. yanagi

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Trust your tailor. Enjoy the process!
  6. yanagi

    Naples Bespoke Tailors

    Don't go (solely or even mainly) by price. Go by whether you like what they're making/what you're seeing on people actually wearing the finished suits etc. For what it's worth, I have jackets from Sartoria Tofani and Zizolfi and happily recommend both.
  7. yanagi

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Your jacket, your choice, of course; but IMO, I'd leave it be. I concur that it's a touch long. I just don't think it's worth the risk to mess with the length (UNLESS Maestra La Montagna herself agrees and does the shortening). I love the con rollino shoulders BTW.
  8. yanagi

    Striped rowing blazer fabrics

    I know of this book but haven't used it myself: https://www.batemanogden.co.uk/Products/Mill_Collection
  9. yanagi

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    #teamrope
  10. yanagi

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Genuardi made my wedding suit, which both my wife and I are very happy with. If you like what you see on his Instagram, I believe you'll be happy too.
  11. yanagi

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    The reason I asked is that IMO, that photo and angle makes it fairly obvious that there's no shoulder padding in the jacket at all. So it's not "built-up." But at the same time, yes, the sleeve head is slightly roped. So it's not "soft" either. It is, however, Neapolitan because that's where...
  12. yanagi

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Do you consider these shoulders "soft," "bigger/built-up," or neither?
  13. yanagi

    Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread

    Not 100% sure, but I think it's from the older Sopra Visso book, which had lighter weight worsted tweeds. The current Sopra Visso book has mid-weight plain weaves.
  14. yanagi

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    I also like the one on the right.
  15. yanagi

    Ongoing Bespoke Projects

    Have you considered Joseph Genuardi (in Hoboken, NJ)? He made my wedding suit; and my wife and I both like it a lot. I have no experience with his overcoats, but here's an example:
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