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  1. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    I too saw this as a swan song, return to California, all blacks, funeral feel, although somewhat contrasted with the dynamic orchestral score. This was one of the collections that spoke to me the most and seems more easily wearable, thus, likely his final collection for Celine!!
  3. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    according to the most credible source in the world, Instagram, HS seems to be on the edge of departing Celine. Would make sense as five years is a long time and I could see his proposed replacement, Michael Rider of Polo, being a suitable replacement. I’ve always had this idea that Celine is the...
  4. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    The one thing I wonder about there, though, is wouldn't that adversely affect the silhouette? I suppose it could be said in both directions, but for some reason I like the touch of flare at the end of the sleeve, whereas I tend to like a tighter/higher armhole upper bicep region unless I'm...
  5. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    I had a tailor shorten from the end of the sleeve once and was left with fewer buttons!!
  6. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    If you have a relationship shouldn’t be a problem, but if you’re coming in for the first time to the boutique and not purchasing anything they might stonewall you. They know good tailors so you can be confident in the alterations, that said, if you’re in the know in your area you should be able...
  7. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    I'm not a huge boot guy, but have some Saint Laurents and remember them being touted as Goodyear but to GG's point, I've had SA's from the HS empire tell me that the suits or blazers are half or fully canvassed depending on mood or day. I'm never quite sure myself so have given up. That said...
  8. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    Seems to be the traditional negotiating phase's hyperbole, although as a creative one tends to be peripatetic and thus one wouldn't be surprised if HS moved on to another endeavor.
  9. SirGrotius

    Saint Laurent Paris - Official Thread.

    I feel like 4k now is low for a leather jacket, how crazy is that?
  10. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    Peak of my collection.
  11. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    I like a lot of the new stuff! I could say my usual caveat, except the giant logo, but won't bother! This is basically perfect for me but too close of course to the blouson in brown I purchased last year. It happens to be my best fitting leather.
  12. SirGrotius

    ***The Official Dior Homme Thread***

    Yes, I don’t have the suits with me now (traveling), but can almost assure you that they are a touch wider than SLP suiting, 1-2 cms sounds right. SLP feels more constrictive in the shoulders and upper arms.
  13. SirGrotius

    ***The Official Dior Homme Thread***

    Interesting. Are you in the States? I see a few fitted models under the tailoring section of the webstore. I can give a quick rundown on the suiting by location that I’ve personally visited: - Midtown Manhattan - best selection, can customize (MTM) fabrics, buttons, etc. But will still be based...
  14. SirGrotius

    ***The Official Dior Homme Thread***

    I went TTS, although Dior Homme gives the option for Court or Regular in terms of length and button placement. SLP does not have those two options IME, all regular. The Classic Suit is the Hedi model. It has a more tapered body. The Fitted Suit is a bit of an update from KVA, with a slightly...
  15. SirGrotius

    ***The Official Dior Homme Thread***

    I’m quite familiar with them. I was in Paris in 2023 and was checking out the latest suiting. I haven’t checked them out this year though. Any specific questions?
  16. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    I suppose this is an inflection point but could just be some jostling for a higher contract and/or more creative prerogative, although I had the impression he already had carte blanche. I recall the last discussion on Chanel was that it’d make too much sense, and he’s be able to write his own...
  17. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    That's some great photography above. I read a little while back about the expansion of the cosmetics market, especially post pandemic and the increased face time via screens.
  18. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    Looks great. Perfect fit and very versatile jacket you'll enjoy for years.
  19. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    I believe 44 is the smallest it goes and leather jeans from HS tend to be cut very skinny so you’ll be good. This will future proof you too in case you gain a few pounds ;).
  20. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    Yes, always have those button holes made functional, the surgeon's cuffs. They look cool if they leave the last button closest to the wrist unbuttoned. 50% of the time the tailor will forget though, so may need to prod the SA to give the tailor a reminder.
  21. SirGrotius

    The official CELINE thread

    Yes, I always have my jackets taken up a touch from the shoulder, not the sleeve. This preserves the designer's intended flow or cut. If you reduce the length from the bottom of the sleeve it'll throw off the proportions of the buttons and in terms of tapering the sleeve opening I wouldn't worry...
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