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  1. philosophe

    Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

    The jacket is much too short. The pants look too skinny. Tight clothes in warm weather=discomfort. All and all, that's a real miss. Perhaps you should consult Dapper above about how to collaborate with PC.
  3. philosophe

    As a younger man with an interest in classic and traditional menswear, how do I avoid looking dated or much older than I am?

    Mossorcks gives great advice. It's really important to find clothing that flatters your build and fits your personality. If you proceed slowly, trying one thing at the time to see how you feel in it, you'll find what feels good. The biggest danger is quick shopping--take time to figure out...
  4. philosophe

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    Enjoy The Hours! Who's singing?
  5. philosophe

    The Kamakura of Pants? (Best MTM option)

    I've done Rota through NoManWalksAlone and recommend it. They also have MTM pants from Carrara.
  6. philosophe

    Getting my first bespoke item (sport coat)

    Another vote something dark blue. A small pattern or some texture would also be a plus. Solid gray looks like a lost suit jacket.
  7. philosophe

    Classic, straight, double pleated trousers which don't look pre-war and don't taper like contemporary cuts.

    If you're stateside, you might contact NoManWalksAlone. They do MTM with Sartoria Carrara, and there are a lot of design options. The price will not be cheap, but you might be able to get just what you want.
  8. philosophe

    WAYWRN: Classic Menswear, Casual Style

    Happy Easter, Wooly!
  9. philosophe

    Rubato

    Same experience as Iskander. Plus they told me that the price for international shipping has decreased. None of that explains price increases on the order of narly $100 per item.
  10. philosophe

    WAYWRN: Classic Menswear, Casual Style

    When you're pushing the temperature margin, the jacket will look better on gray, rainy days.
  11. philosophe

    High-twist wool with glen plaid pattern - okay for a sport coat?

    OP, Despos says it all.
  12. philosophe

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    @lindenbaum, the tie is definitely a problem.
  13. philosophe

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    Congrats, Wolfdale! You look great.
  14. philosophe

    Rubato

    Definitely sz 32.
  15. philosophe

    Re-using fabric from family heirloom suits from Venezuela: advice?

    Ranciere69, as you've probably discovered Despos is a master tailor. Follow his advice!
  16. philosophe

    Re-using fabric from family heirloom suits from Venezuela: advice?

    My guess--and it's non-expert guess--is that you might be able to have the pants recut to fit. Jackets are a more complicated story, due to the shoulder construction and the length, which dictates the pocket placement. You might post this question on the "ask a tailor" thread to get more expert...
  17. philosophe

    ٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ (a.k.a. I shouldn't have slept on it)

    If you put the coat on a flat surface and button all the buttons, do you see the wrinkling problem? Or is this problem evident only when you wear the coat? If the former, perhaps one button is misaligned. If the latter, the problem might be the overall dimensions of the front of the coat as...
  18. philosophe

    ٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ (a.k.a. I shouldn't have slept on it)

    Zranger, did you check the button placement?
  19. philosophe

    HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

    AAS, I like the pink & brown combo in principle, but the cord jacket looks better with pants with some texture and depth of color. Overall, I lpreferred the pink & gray look you posted earlier.
  20. philosophe

    A Decent Tailor in Philadelphia?

    One good option might be Larnell Baldwin, if he hasn't retired. He's taught many tailors and seen it all. https://www.larnellbaldwin.com/
  21. philosophe

    Shoulder always too tight. Tips and dirty tricks for avoiding the tailor?

    Depending on your budget, MTM of some kind would help. Off the rack, perhaps look for suits with a more athletic cut to accommodate a large drop.
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