Proper Cloth - Official Affiliate Thread

[wozniak]

I appreciate the feedback on this. I'd been curious about their suit/sportcoat fits but hadn't pulled the trigger. Do they use a lower armhole as is common in most OTR/MTM outfits? Or is it a more proper fitting higher armhole?

In my experience their suits have lower armhole designs. The Bedford line was the worst. Allen line a bit better but still an issue. Attached photo is third remake with the Allen line. I have had much better fit success with a cheaper less liked MTM company which was surprising.

 

[tilesomoole]

sounds like the at-home fitting garment would be the way to go - has anyone tried it?

Some of those fabrics look amazing, but I've been reluctant to pull the trigger - as someone else said, I have other very good options.

 

[ericgereghty]

Ok, not having much luck with the CS team, since I may not be quite clear enough in my ask.

So, I'll try here. How have y'all accounted for their "new" (it isn't new, but I haven't ordered in a spell) counter shrinkage/stretch program? Did y'all keep your same sizing as prior, or have to adjust?

I'm 99% certain PC DID account for shrinkage prior to the newer program, so I'm VERY confident I don't want exact measurements/no shrinkage allotted for, particularly with linen fabrics.

Let me know any thoughts/experiences...

 

[GentlemanJeff]

I appreciate the feedback on this. I'd been curious about their suit/sportcoat fits but hadn't pulled the trigger. Do they use a lower armhole as is common in most OTR/MTM outfits? Or is it a more proper fitting higher armhole?

I've had the opposite experience. My suits and sport coats have been great, but my casual shirts (madras, linen, chambrays) were plagued by such shrinkage issues that I haven't ordered in awhile (though I know they revamped their shrinking approach last year).

FWIW, I haven't had shrinkage issues with heavy oxfords or flannels. I think those fabrics are robust/heavy enough that it's much less difficult to plan for.

People also seem to haven't had shrinkage issues dealing with dress shirts.

 

[TheLawBeard]

I've had the opposite experience. My suits and sport coats have been great, but my casual shirts (madras, linen, chambrays) were plagued by such shrinkage issues that I haven't ordered in awhile (though I know they revamped their shrinking approach last year).

FWIW, I haven't had shrinkage issues with heavy oxfords or flannels. I think those fabrics are robust/heavy enough that it's much less difficult to plan for.

People also seem to haven't had shrinkage issues dealing with dress shirts.

The shrinkage issues I've had were kind of all over the place. I've also had a few that were just nowhere near spec no matter how you "account for shrinkage" but they stepped up and took care of it.

The worst offenders have been the low twist flannels and a few chambrays.

 

[cuponoodles]

I haven't had too many shrinkage issues outside of the corduroys. They shrink much, much more than PC suggests. I have one that is now unwearable after a few washes.

I think their suits are pretty bang on, all things considered.

 

[tilesomoole]

So, I'll try here. How have y'all accounted for their "new" (it isn't new, but I haven't ordered in a spell) counter shrinkage/stretch program? Did y'all keep your same sizing as prior, or have to adjust?

I made a test shirt right after the new shrinkage allowance system was announced. I emailed customer service and had them 'turn off' the shrinkage allowances.

It worked! They still added a little to the neck and sleeve measurements, but the main numbers (shoulders, waist circumference, length, sleeve width, etc.) were spot on. I can live with that, and will just use a faux neck measurement so that I get exactly what I need.


Shrinkage has never been an issue for me --- seriously ---- wash in cold water and hang dry. Problem solved. Shrinkage will be minimal if there's any at all. Dry cleaning is also an option, with a caveat or two.


Two things that always perplexed me about the shrinkage allowance system:

1. Somewhere on the site it states that the fabrics are expected to shrink minimally in width and mostly in length....then the allowances are applied mostly to width and collar / sleeve circumference and not much at all to length. That seems ********** *******, but I'm no expert.......maybe there's something I'm missing.

One thing I'm not missing is the fit of the shirts made under that system.


2. wouldn't it be much easier, and cheaper in the long run given returns and people like me whining about the allowances all the time....to just pre-wash the fabric? Maybe there's some problem getting the factories to cooperate or something, I don't know, but goodness the allowance system seems like it would be an absolute nightmare if I were trying to run a business and implement it.

 

[dapperclassic]

Baird McNutt linen suit in the new wide lapel cut

 

[grenache]

Baird McNutt linen suit in the new wide lapel cut

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How does the fit/base model compared to S&M’s neo cut? Are there any areas where you need to significantly adjust the size/measurements?

I’m a good fit in S&M neo for a 40L and would love to switch to PC for tailoring as I have done so shirts.

 

[dapperclassic]

How does the fit/base model compared to S&M’s neo cut? Are there any areas where you need to significantly adjust the size/measurements?

I’m a good fit in S&M neo for a 40L and would love to switch to PC for tailoring as I have done so shirts.

Not too different, a good starting point is to duplicate your S&M measurements by following the PC measuring guide. That got me close, I then made a few small tweaks to improve the front and back rise, leg width, hip, shoulder width, sleeve length.

 

[Viatu]

Ignore

 

[GentlemanJeff]

Baird McNutt linen suit in the new wide lapel cut

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I love it! Is that the coffee, toffee, tobacco, or cocoa bean?