Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[hoppy_IPA]

Off-Whites laces 👍 or 👎 ?

 

[HomunculusTheElder]

Last question--anybody have any experience with the White's Dress Leather? Who is it tanned by, and how does it compare in both thickness and quality to say, Horween Chromexcel?

 

[motojobobo]

Off-Whites laces 👍 or 👎 ?

View attachment 2105939

👎🏻

 

[chicagoan2016]

Last question--anybody have any experience with the White's Dress Leather? Who is it tanned by, and how does it compare in both thickness and quality to say, Horween Chromexcel?

I have boots in both dress leathers and CXL.
Dress leather when lined is close to work leather in thickness but it can take a shine (i.e. dress).
I don't know if CXL can take a shine, at least I am not aware of it.
CXL is also very supple and stretches the most in all the boots I own (work, dress, horsehide leathers etc.).
For your first pair of White's, I would recommend White's brown dress leather. That said, you can't go wrong with any leather you choose from White's. They do not cut corners.
I recommend getting lining on CXL and horsehide leathers.

 

[kenl14]

I have boots in both dress leathers and CXL.
Dress leather when lined is close to work leather in thickness but it can take a shine (i.e. dress).
I don't know if CXL can take a shine, at least I am not aware of it.
CXL is also very supple and stretches the most in all the boots I own (work, dress, horsehide leathers etc.).
For your first pair of White's, I would recommend White's brown dress leather. That said, you can't go wrong with any leather you choose from White's. They do not cut corners.
I recommend getting lining on CXL and horsehide leathers.

have been wondering whether their work leather take a good shine, attracted by its’ thick sturdiness but would like it to take up shine if necessary

 

[HomunculusTheElder]

I have boots in both dress leathers and CXL.
Dress leather when lined is close to work leather in thickness but it can take a shine (i.e. dress).
I don't know if CXL can take a shine, at least I am not aware of it.
CXL is also very supple and stretches the most in all the boots I own (work, dress, horsehide leathers etc.).
For your first pair of White's, I would recommend White's brown dress leather. That said, you can't go wrong with any leather you choose from White's. They do not cut corners.
I recommend getting lining on CXL and horsehide leathers.

Thank you for all of your help!

Thanks to you and others (specifically the guy from Mid-City Fashion, whose eye for builds in the White's Semi-Dress is impeccable, I think) I have arrived at my final build:

White’s Semi-Dress
Standard 55 Last
No Toe Cap
Brown Dress Leather
Close Sole Trim (Single Row Stitching)
Single Midsole
Antique All Eyes
Tan Leather Lined
No Pull Loop
Vibram 700 Full Outsole
Single Celastic
Extra 1/4” Heel Height
Brown Edge Dressing
Standard Heel Base (Logger Heel)

Now just have to wait for that sale!

 

[Scooterputtputt]

Thank you for all of your help!

Thanks to you and others (specifically the guy from Mid-City Fashion, whose eye for builds in the White's Semi-Dress is impeccable, I think) I have arrived at my final build:

White’s Semi-Dress
Standard 55 Last
No Toe Cap
Brown Dress Leather
Close Sole Trim (Single Row Stitching)
Single Midsole
Antique All Eyes
Tan Leather Lined
No Pull Loop
Vibram 700 Full Outsole
Single Celastic
Extra 1/4” Heel Height
Brown Edge Dressing
Standard Heel Base (Logger Heel)

Now just have to wait for that sale!

I’ve nearly that makeup. Absolutely love them! I’m probably at fifty pair of boots now, it’s addictive. Was asked if I could choose only one pair to wear, I answered these. Part of the love for me is the ease of getting them on and off as well as the quickness of lacing them. Those speed hooks play into that. Unless Your deadset on all eyelets Id encourage you to reconsider that option.

 

[HomunculusTheElder]

I’ve nearly that makeup. Absolutely love them! I’m probably at fifty pair of boots now, it’s addictive. Was asked if I could choose only one pair to wear, I answered these. Part of the love for me is the ease of getting them on and off as well as the quickness of lacing them. Those speed hooks play into that. Unless Your deadset on all eyelets Id encourage you to reconsider that option.

Awesome!

Do you have the 1/4 inch heel lift as well? How does that feel?

As for speed hooks, for aesthetic reasons I think I will still go for all eyes on this pair--for a 5 inch boot I think that will be manageable, much like Red Wing Beckman or old school Blacksmith.

 

[Alaskaking]

Awesome!

Do you have the 1/4 inch heel lift as well? How does that feel?

As for speed hooks, for aesthetic reasons I think I will still go for all eyes on this pair--for a 5 inch boot I think that will be manageable, much like Red Wing Beckman or old school Blacksmith.

I have a 1/4" lift and standard heel on a 9338 last- I prefer the standard. Walking on uneven terrain, climbing and descending hills, its fine for me, but on floors, I find that it pitches me more forward on the ball of my foot that I compensate for with extension in my back. Tolerable, but going back to standard at a resole.
That will be a fine pair of boots either way you build it!

 

[Scooterputtputt]

Awesome!

Do you have the 1/4 inch heel lift as well? How does that feel?

As for speed hooks, for aesthetic reasons I think I will still go for all eyes on this pair--for a 5 inch boot I think that will be manageable, much like Red Wing Beckman or old school Blacksmith.

No I do not. Only other difference is I have double mid soles. I’m fine with them, but would probably stick with single if done over. I’ve worked my hands terribly hard through the years, thus the love for speed hooks no doubt. Also, guaranteed you will love the tea core effect with the dress brown. It’s amazing.

 

[HomunculusTheElder]

No I do not. Only other difference is I have double mid soles. I’m fine with them, but would probably stick with single if done over. I’ve worked my hands terribly hard through the years, thus the love for speed hooks no doubt. Also, guaranteed you will love the tea core effect with the dress brown. It’s amazing.

I am very much looking forward to having this pair in my collection--it seems to me to be the ultimate 5 inch boot. I believe one person characterized it as "the boot that the Red Wing Beckman wants to be when it grows up". I am still in the market for one of White's 8 inch boots, probably the Rancher, but I think I will put that off for later, given budgetary restrictions. Also, as a pianist, taller boots are less practical for me--it makes the ankle flexion needed for effective pedaling nearly impossible!


I was wondering if anybody else had experience with the 1/4 inch heel lift? Does it make that much of a difference, as one of the above commentators said? I definitely don't want my feet to feel as if they are "falling forward" because of it.

 

[HomunculusTheElder]

On the one hand, I worry that an added extra 1/4 inch will look goofy and/or throw of the balance of the shoe.

On the other, something just "clicks" for me aesthetically with the build shown in the following video:



However, he does have significantly larger feet than mine (an 11D as opposed to my 8D) so I am not sure if that has anything to do with it. Also not sure if the toe cap changes one's perspective with regards to the proportions of the shoe.

Perhaps I can ask Baker's to send me some more pics of Semi-Dress boots with the added heel lift?

 

[milkbaby]

I was wondering if anybody else had experience with the 1/4 inch heel lift? Does it make that much of a difference, as one of the above commentators said? I definitely don't want my feet to feel as if they are "falling forward" because of it.

I have a White's Bounty Hunter on the normal heel stack and a Nick's Builder Pro which is 1/4" higher heel stack, both of which are the same under foot (single midsole and Vibram 100 lugged outsole). I personally prefer the higher heel. In fact, I like it so much that I specified the extra height for another pair of White's Bounty Hunters that I ordered and am currently waiting on. And I will always choose the higher heel stack when given the chance. Every one is different though, so you just have to try and see which you prefer.

As for aesthetics, when worn on foot the heel height isn't something you'll see or even something other people will much notice due to the angle any one is viewing them from. Looking at beauty shots online isn't the same as what's seen in real life. But, if you want more pics and can't find them, Nick's standard heel is one stack (1/4“) taller than the White's standard heel.

 

[linafelt]

 

[HomunculusTheElder]

I have a White's Bounty Hunter on the normal heel stack and a Nick's Builder Pro which is 1/4" higher heel stack, both of which are the same under foot (single midsole and Vibram 100 lugged outsole). I personally prefer the higher heel. In fact, I like it so much that I specified the extra height for another pair of White's Bounty Hunters that I ordered and am currently waiting on. And I will always choose the higher heel stack when given the chance. Every one is different though, so you just have to try and see which you prefer.

As for aesthetics, when worn on foot the heel height isn't something you'll see or even something other people will much notice due to the angle any one is viewing them from. Looking at beauty shots online isn't the same as what's seen in real life. But, if you want more pics and can't find them, Nick's standard heel is one stack (1/4“) taller than the White's standard heel.

Okay that is good to know! Since the 55 last is shared by both White's and Nicks, and Nicks themselves use an extra heel lift on this last, it must work well! Thank you for your insights.