Lazymen, Chores, & Blousons: a thread for a new form of tailoring

[Octobab]

I've been thinkiog about starting a thread like this for a while, but @dieworkwear's comments back in the Drakes thread, and all of the lively discussion in the various casual CM threads, have finally pushed me get off my butt:

Ever since the explosion of chore coats into what feels like every clothing store, there's been a slow and fascinating emergence of a new breed of tailoring-adjacent jacket. I first became aware of this sort of thing with Lutays, who launched back in the early days of the chore picking up steam with a different take, replacing hardy denims, doubled seams, and other workwear details with the soft wools, linens, cottons, and the refined construction methods you'd typically find in tailoring. It kept the form, but was deliberately much more elegant, and designed to fit neatly into a tailored wardrobe.

There's quite a number of makers of these now, @Epaulet being one of the other prominent ones around this forum, but go looking and you can find this sort of thing all over the place now.

Similar things have been happening with other classic workwear silhouettes, with jackets like the Spanish Teba (the Armory's City Hunter, below), and recently even classic American workwear style's, like the Armory's 3 pocket Blouson, and Road Jacket, both takes on the cropped silhouettes of trucker jackets (below as well, respectively)

And maybe most excitingly, a new sort of original, hybrid breed, taking many of the contemporary-feeling cues of workwear, and using them to replace the more anachronistic elements of tailored jackets, I think best exemplified by the Anthology's Lazyman:

These are only a tiny handful of pack-leading examples; I feel like I see more jackets which fit into this category every day, in a dizzying variety of styles, from dozens of makers. I think all of these jackets represent a very exciting new element for tailoring - and so I thought it would be great to have a thread to discuss them! New makers, new silhouettes, how you style them, etc. Maybe even a bit of categorization and critique as this little infant corner of the clothing world grows

 

[Octobab]

A few of my favorite examples of fits incorporating these, off the top of my head - please feel free to add more:

A guy with a great IG who's name I cannot remember for the life of me. If you know, tell me and I'll update this. Wearing the Anthology Lazyman.

@Burzan in Epaulet's melton wool Doyle:

Another Lazyman in seersucker from (I think) André Larnyoh

Jim Parker in a Cityhunter:

A flatlay I particularly love from Anglo-italian with their Barachetta (including raglan sleeves - delicious):


And fun article on the topic: https://robbreport.com/style/menswear/best-tailored-spring-jackets-for-men-2909658/

 

[物の哀れ]

 

[jayvee]

Great thread. I love these kind of jackets. Raglan sleeves and a shawl collar would be nice

 

[Octobab]

@smittycl had posted in the 'standing out thread' but I thought I'd show it here: some very great soft, tweedy Tebas from Leffot, done up in Fox Brothers fabric available for pre-order: https://leffot.com/categories/jackets/

 

[radicaldog]

Excellent thread idea. I do think this type of garment is the future for those who like traditional cloth but dislike the stuffiness of traditional tailored jackets.

These jackets also make it a lot easier to wear tailored trousers in a relaxed way, as the flannels/twill & tweed look rarely works these days (too casual for when formality is required, too formal for when it isn’t).

 

[smittycl]

I picked this up from De Bonne Facture and really like it so far. Still a bit hot here, though.

 

[double00]

seem like variations of *hollywood suit* or *leisure suit*

and why not ?

 

[Octobab]

I picked this up from De Bonne Facture and really like it so far. Still a bit hot here, though.

Any plans on how you'll style it? I've had an Arpenteur villefranche for a while in a similar shade and while I love it, it's surprisingly hard to work with, color-wise

 

[smittycl]

Any plans on how you'll style it? I've had an Arpenteur villefranche for a while in a similar shade and while I love it, it's surprisingly hard to work with, color-wise

I actually bought the pants as well from NMWA. Wore this on my recent flights to and from Seattle. A bit of a young man's look but I think it worked. One of the few times I've bought a "look" rather than just one piece.

 

[Octobab]

I actually bought the pants as well from NMWA. Wore this on my recent flights to and from Seattle. A bit of a young man's look but I think it worked. One of the few times I've bought a "look" rather than just one piece.

If you wore all-white on an airplane you're braver than I am

Excellent thread idea. I do think this type of garment is the future for those who like traditional cloth but dislike the stuffiness of traditional tailored jackets.

These jackets also make it a lot easier to wear tailored trousers in a relaxed way, as the flannels/twill & tweed look rarely works these days (too casual for when formality is required, too formal for when it isn’t).

Couldn't agree more - it's been brought up a lot lately, but there's a real weight to context of the wearer in how an outfit feels. As a young, blue-collar guy, as much as I love tailoring, it's very hard to leave the house in a sportcoat without feeling like I'm putting on some kind of air, or wearing a costume of an older man. I can't help but feel self-concious about it all day, and so that saps any kind of confidence needed to wear it well. Harsh as it may be, I agree with this sentiment:

When I see a young person in a sport coat, I assume they either read menswear blogs or they're a member of the local College Republicans club.

In addititon to the high-low look, I've found that using jackets like these, or things like overshirts, have given me the ability to wear tailoring how I want to, while still feeling like myself

 

[smittycl]

If you wore all-white on an airplane you're braver than I am



Couldn't agree more - it's been brought up a lot lately, but there's a real weight to context of the wearer in how an outfit feels. As a young, blue-collar guy, as much as I love tailoring, it's very hard to leave the house in a sportcoat without feeling like I'm putting on some kind of air, or wearing a costume of an older man. I can't help but feel self-concious about it all day, and so that saps any kind of confidence needed to wear it well. Harsh as it may be, I agree with this sentiment:


In addititon to the high-low look, I've found that using jackets like these, or things like overshirts, have given me the ability to wear tailoring how I want to, while still feeling like myself

Brown plaid pants with off-white jacket.

 

[mak1277]

For those of you who have jackets like these, do you wear them indoors (like you would a sport coat) or only as outerwear? I have only one chore jacket at this point and only wear it as outerwear.

 

[FlyingHorker]

I don't think these really work as tailoring though.

Completely unstructured, and completely closed quarters.

I notice some people sneakily posing with these shirt jackets to make it seem like they have open quarters like a suit or sports coat, but they don't.

 

[FlyingHorker]

For those of you who have jackets like these, do you wear them indoors (like you would a sport coat) or only as outerwear? I have only one chore jacket at this point and only wear it as outerwear.

Could wear them as both.