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OFFICIAL Simon Crompton thread (PermanentStyle.com)

aristoi bcn

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I don’t believe so. I don’t think he’s cut since 2010-2012 (I’m not sure the exact date)

He’s only doing buttonholes now:

IMG_8859.png
 

Texasmade

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Simon admits he wouldn't pay Liverano's prices for a coat!!!!

View attachment 2128515
Scrolling through the comments on his jacket, price is the main thing everyone wants to talk about.

At least @jonathanS won't have to worry about foreigners being charged more than locals at L&L. Everyone gets charged equally high prices.
 

jonathanS

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Scrolling through the comments on his jacket, price is the main thing everyone wants to talk about.

At least @jonathanS won't have to worry about foreigners being charged more than locals at L&L. Everyone gets charged equally high prices.

Haha, that’s true! Although, I doubt liverano any Italian customers! (Or very few.)

For what it’s worth, I believe Simon quoted trunk show pricing. Interestingly, this Simon article made it in both a group chat & a conversation between myself and a bespoke tailor, who’s a friend. I believe the price in Italy is closer to 8k€ but that might be excluding vat.

My complaint, btw, isn’t about a difference between trunkshow vs. non trunk show pricing. It’s about discriminating against people because they don’t look the same or speak the same language (where all fittings and ordering is done in Italy).

Perhaps it’s the American or lawyer it me, but that’s not right to me & I don’t do business with people who operate that way. But hey, with liverano, that’s not an issue. Everyone is taken advantage of equally, I suppose.
 

Texasmade

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Haha, that’s true! Although, I doubt liverano any Italian customers! (Or very few.)

For what it’s worth, I believe Simon quoted trunk show pricing. Interestingly, this Simon article made it in both a group chat & a conversation between myself and a bespoke tailor, who’s a friend. I believe the price in Italy is closer to 8k€ but that might be excluding vat.

My complaint, btw, isn’t about a difference between trunkshow vs. non trunk show pricing. It’s about discriminating against people because they don’t look the same or speak the same language (where all fittings and ordering is done in Italy).

Perhaps it’s the American or lawyer it me, but that’s not right to me & I don’t do business with people who operate that way. But hey, with liverano, that’s not an issue. Everyone is taken advantage of equally, I suppose.
I'm guessing most of L&L's customers are extremely rich Asians (quite a few trunk shows in Asia) and Americans from The Armoury. Locals probably go to the ex L&L cutters who are significantly cheaper.
 

jonathanS

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I'm guessing most of L&L's customers are extremely rich Asians (quite a few trunk shows in Asia) and Americans from The Armoury. Locals probably go to the ex L&L cutters who are significantly cheaper.
I’m not sure, but I’d venture to guess their clientele (or atleast target clientele) doesn’t read styleforum or permanent style (judging by the comments section!)
 

St1X

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Haha, that’s true! Although, I doubt liverano any Italian customers! (Or very few.)

For what it’s worth, I believe Simon quoted trunk show pricing. Interestingly, this Simon article made it in both a group chat & a conversation between myself and a bespoke tailor, who’s a friend. I believe the price in Italy is closer to 8k€ but that might be excluding vat.

My complaint, btw, isn’t about a difference between trunkshow vs. non trunk show pricing. It’s about discriminating against people because they don’t look the same or speak the same language (where all fittings and ordering is done in Italy).

Perhaps it’s the American or lawyer it me, but that’s not right to me & I don’t do business with people who operate that way. But hey, with liverano, that’s not an issue. Everyone is taken advantage of equally, I suppose.
Trunk show prices are higher as tailors have to book flights, hotels and show rooms. So it makes sense you are charged a higher price for that. But not twice as much. Also, I wonder how taxation works in this case?! And do you pay tailors at the trunk show or do they bill you later? I.e. If L&L gets a few customers in the US, they'll raise a few tens of thousands. I assume the Uncle Sam would want his piece of a pie for that large sum of a money 🤷
 
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What do you base this on?

Guida was never the head cutter. He was the workshop manager.

Antonio, before qemal, was the cutter. He’s old though - Vittorio was in between qemal & Jin.

who going to teach the next generation if Antonio passes & Jin leaves? There’s no real succession plan. It’s not like panico or Ciardi who’s son has taken (sons took over) over cutting prior to the passing of the old master. Last I heard, they were trying to teach taka to cut. Perhaps they need Jin to have an ownership stake to stay.

Old masters pass all the time, and sometimes their Sartoria follows - vestrucci retired completely, and tomasco folded the vestrucci brand into stefano bemer. At the same time, stefano bemer - the brand continued after the passing of stefano.

liverano’s rtw has its own issues though, so it’s not exactly clear. But, Perhaps that’s the solution?
Any opinion on Guida?
 

classicalthunde

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If L&L gets a few customers in the US, they'll raise a few tens of thousands. I assume the Uncle Sam would want his piece of a pie for that large sum of a money

At the trunk shows I’ve placed an order at I get an invoice a couple days after the trip is over and they are presumably back in Italy. This would avoid the tax implications I imagine since the “sale” takes place outside of NYC.

Also, it’s prob why ordering through The Armoury is significantly more (sales tax and import duties), cause they’d not be able to circumvent this being a B&M establishment collecting money in NYC.
 

jonathanS

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Any opinion on Guida?




I have no personal experience with guida, but he’s in Prato & his stuff looks good.

Honestly, look at that coat, are you really telling me the liverano coat is better?

I’m not sure about the finishing details, but he seems decent. 2 others ive heard good things about in Florence are hojun choi & sartoria seminara
 

jonathanS

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Trunk show prices are higher as tailors have to book flights, hotels and show rooms. So it makes sense you are charged a higher price for that. But not twice as much. Also, I wonder how taxation works in this case?! And do you pay tailors at the trunk show or do they bill you later? I.e. If L&L gets a few customers in the US, they'll raise a few tens of thousands. I assume the Uncle Sam would want his piece of a pie for that large sum of a money 🤷

You pay import taxes, generally.
 

Texasmade

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Trunk show prices are higher as tailors have to book flights, hotels and show rooms. So it makes sense you are charged a higher price for that. But not twice as much. Also, I wonder how taxation works in this case?! And do you pay tailors at the trunk show or do they bill you later? I.e. If L&L gets a few customers in the US, they'll raise a few tens of thousands. I assume the Uncle Sam would want his piece of a pie for that large sum of a money 🤷
Most of the time they'll bill you later when they get home. You won't pay sales tax or VAT but you could be tagged with import taxes.
 

Texasmade

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Also, it’s prob why ordering through The Armoury is significantly more (sales tax and import duties), cause they’d not be able to circumvent this being a B&M establishment collecting money in NYC.
Based on Simon's post, doesn't seem like The Armoury and non trunk show prices are that different excluding VAT. I've never ordered L&L through The Armoury but I imagine those prices include import but excludes sales taxes.
 

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