Ongoing Bespoke Projects

[clee1982]

why would you want to try so many guys in one go, all different styles?

 

[Texasmade]

why would you want to try so many guys in one go?

so hard not to make the joke...

 

[jonathanS]

why would you want to try so many guys in one go, all different styles?

Because he’s very sartorially promiscuous, duh!

 

[tdang]

why would you want to try so many guys in one go, all different styles?

I am insatiable 😂

 

[Dalaruan]

I’m supposed to get a suit from kotaro that’s 450g anyday now. But, at this rate, I won’t have an occasion to wear it until next year. But that’s the way things go.


Looks good my friend! Are you going to try kenji Suzuki now that he’s back in Japan? If i was in Asia for an extended period of time, he’d be on my list to try (partly because I’ve never ordered French tailoring & am curious). Him, one of the Neapolitan guys & an English-inspired guy. Based purely on curiosity.

Would add Raffaniello to the list. Had a DB jacket made by him and its an absolute beauty. Granted the fit could be better but i asked to have it delivered with 1 fit only so it's always going to be a big compromise. I would definitely commission more if i can fly over to Japan regularly again

 

[me.spoke]

Update on my DB tuxedo - the lapel shape is not definite, it will be basted for tomorrow’s fitting to visualise its final form.

Question on the trousers, though… I was quite surprised by the side stripe… I was expecting something like this:

But instead it looks like this:

I don’t know what to make of it - the tailor says it is a more traditional and ‘refined’ version, but the sateen stripe seems too narrow to me. The whole thing kind of reminds me of a zipper from the distance due to the machine overstitch. Any thoughts on what whether I should require a change of the side stripe or leave it be?

I think it was supposed to be something like this (Simon Crompton’s tux by Richard Anderson):

 

[jonathanS]

Would add Raffaniello to the list. Had a DB jacket made by him and it’s an absolute beauty. Granted the fit could be better but i asked to have it delivered with 1 fit only so it's always going to be a big compromise. I would definitely commission more if i can fly over to Japan regularly again

I’m surprised he would let a garment out of his shop without being satisfied with it, fit wise.

You bring up a good point though, with Japanese artisans, unless you’re willing to stick it out & do all the proper fittings, what’s the point? Of course, if they travel to the us, that’s a different story. But, I wouldn’t work with them unless I had plans to come back multiple times. @tdang lives in Asia, so it’s not terribly difficult for him to get to Japan (and I am jealous of him for that haha). But, for me, you need to plan to visit frequently until they atleast get your pattern down. Then you can order subsequently & just do 1 fitting.

And, I suppose this goes for every artisan, not just Japanese. But for Americans, Japan is much further than Europe (20+ hour flight vs. 12 hour flight). Just something to think about when embarking on this journey.

 

[Sreezy36]

Update on my DB tuxedo - the lapel shape is not definite, it will be basted for tomorrow’s fitting to visualise its final form.

View attachment 2122785

Question on the trousers, though… I was quite surprised by the side stripe… I was expecting something like this:

View attachment 2122791

But instead it looks like this:

View attachment 2122787
View attachment 2122789
I don’t know what to make of it - the tailor says it is a more traditional and ‘refined’ version, but the sateen stripe seems too narrow to me. The whole thing kind of reminds me of a zipper from the distance due to the machine overstitch. Any thoughts on what whether I should require a change of the side stripe or leave it be?

I think it was supposed to be something like this (Simon Crompton’s tux by Richard Anderson):

View attachment 2122827

That style of trouser braiding is called "OFB(Old fashioned Braid)." Be thankful, that is more than likely vintage and very difficult to find. It's the traditional trouser braiding style for Dinner trousers and can be worn with both white and black tie.

 

[me.spoke]

That style of trouser braiding is called "OFB(Old fashioned Braid)." Be thankful, that is more than likely vintage and very difficult to find. It's the traditional trouser braiding style for Dinner trousers and can be worn with both white and black tie.

Thanks! Sorry for my ignorance. I will leave it in its current form.

 

[DorianGreen]

That style of trouser braiding is called "OFB(Old fashioned Braid)." Be thankful, that is more than likely vintage and very difficult to find. It's the traditional trouser braiding style for Dinner trousers and can be worn with both white and black tie.

Thanks! Sorry for my ignorance. I will leave it in its current form.

I wasn't aware of this style either, always something to learn.

Frankly, I would prefer a simpler design on the stripe.

 

[Sreezy36]

I wasn't aware of this style either, always something to learn.

Frankly, I would prefer a simpler design on the stripe.

Tbh, most people outside of the UK would bother to know or care.

The only reason I know is because when I was sourcing trouser braiding for my dinner suit I emailed B&B and asked them about it. They are one of the only online suppliers of OFB trousers braiding.

OFB Pattern Braid 16mm Black - The Lining Company

 

[The Chai]

I prefer the OFB braid personally unless my facings are satin in which case I prefer satin...but OFB is equally correct and looks good!

 

[Sreezy36]

I prefer the OFB braid personally unless my facings are satin in which case I prefer satin...but OFB is equally correct and looks good!

The main advantage that I can think of with regards to OFB is that it is technically neither satin nor grosgrain. As "silk braiding" (hence the origin of the term "trouser braiding" as it relates to military/formal trousers), it can be worn with both Silk Satin and Silk Grosgrain formal trimmings and accessories.

Its also appropriate for all evening formal and semi formal trousers.

 

[Dalaruan]

I’m surprised he would let a garment out of his shop without being satisfied with it, fit wise.

You bring up a good point though, with Japanese artisans, unless you’re willing to stick it out & do all the proper fittings, what’s the point? Of course, if they travel to the us, that’s a different story. But, I wouldn’t work with them unless I had plans to come back multiple times. @tdang lives in Asia, so it’s not terribly difficult for him to get to Japan (and I am jealous of him for that haha). But, for me, you need to plan to visit frequently until they atleast get your pattern down. Then you can order subsequently & just do 1 fitting.

And, I suppose this goes for every artisan, not just Japanese. But for Americans, Japan is much further than Europe (20+ hour flight vs. 12 hour flight). Just something to think about when embarking on this journey.

Ah I should clarify things, just realised what I said might cause some misunderstandings

I had my first fit and both of us are satisfied with the minor corrections. I asked him to mail me the finished jacket so he didn't see me wearing the finished article. My body shape changes quite a bit from time to time so I guess that's why the fit is ever so slightly off. It's not that bad though, just nitpicking and me asking for a 1-fit and no final check have contributed to this. I still highly recommend raffa though, beautiful garments

Yes I think it's much better to have a thorough fitting for the first order and then subsequent orders can be a 1-fitter. My plan is to find a time, take the jacket back to raffa for alterations, and then the pattern should be good enough going forward

 

[me.spoke]

The main advantage that I can think of with regards to OFB is that it is technically neither satin nor grosgrain. As "silk braiding" (hence the origin of the term "trouser braiding" as it relates to military/formal trousers), it can be worn with both Silk Satin and Silk Grosgrain formal trimmings and accessories.

Its also appropriate for all evening formal and semi formal trousers.

From what I understand the satin stripe running through the middle of the braid is the same fabric that will be used for lapel facings. That said, it is very subtle and I can surely imagine pairing these trousers with jackets with grosgrain facings.

Now that you shed a little light on the topic I think the braid is indeed vintage, just like many other black tie trimmings this tailor offers. He is in his 70s and took over the shop as an apprentice after his boss died in 1950s. I guess they might be pre-war or early post-war items. I will ask him today during the fitting.