UNIFORM LA Japanese BDU Camo Cargo Pants Drop, going on right now.
Uniform LA's Japanese BDU Camo Cargo Pants are now live. These cargos are based off vintage US Army BDU (Battle Dress Uniform) cargos. They're made of a premium 13.5-ounce Japanese twill that has been sulfur dyed for a vintage look. Every detail has been carried over from the inspiration and elevated. Available in two colorways, tundra and woodland. Please find them here
Good luck!.
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I like the Loro piana - I’d, personally, make it up with kotaro.Going to see the first MBT. A quick fit check (Cresent + Pommella):
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The pieces were looking smashing. A green herringbone SB and a beige 6x1 DB.
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Nothing much to say about the flawless fit. I am a big fan of his style, particularly the single breasted model.
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Next commission: this turquoise from Loro Piana's new SS24 Proposte Giacche collection. Have a good feeling about this one!
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I’d make anything with Kotaro , but the man has his hands full.I like the Loro piana - I’d, personally, make it up with kotaro.
Feel worse for the poor tailor who is going to be waiting for some random SF dude to send them a google translate WhatsApp message telling them how a pagoda shoulder gets madeSome poor SF member's jacket is gonna get delayed by like a month so Despos can explain to us how a pagoda shoulder gets made.
Okay…..Feel worse for the poor tailor who is going to be waiting for some random SF dude to send them a google translate WhatsApp message telling them how a pagoda shoulder gets made
Pure silk facing these days is over 200.00 a yard. The higher quality silk is very narrow. Only enough for one jacket from one yard.My impression is that tailors tend to charge more for dinner jackets because of the materials used in the facing and trimmings. For example, the required silk grosgrain/satin facing and braiding is very expensive relative to other trimmings. In some cases, a length of facing can be almost as much as a length of cloth. In contrast, a dinner jacket with self-facing is merely an odd jacket in terms of material costs.
The slight concave effect is from shaping of the canvass. A wedge is inserted in the canvass and the horse hair that creates the concave shape on these shoulders. If making a pagoda shoulder you adjust the grain line of the hymo and haircloth and stretch with an iron more than a regular shoulder.Very old school Napoli. Love it. I could be wrong but from the pics it looks like the shoulder itself is still very light and natural (no deliberate shaping or pagoda). But rather the sleevehead treatment gives it the illusion of a pagoda shape. Would be curious if he uses much wadding in that sleevehead to get the rollino or if its mostly ironing. Also is the shoulder extended at all? I bet these will be very comfy jackets.
Some tailors intentionally cut a more narrow shoulder when making spalla camicia with the intent that your shoulder will fill in the space that the sleeve head would have. Know some shirt makers think like this too.I have some jackets with a shoulder something like that from another old school Napoli house and they are the most comfortable jackets I own. A big sleevehead with high armhole combined with rollino without padding equals super comfortable. Spalla camicia can be comfy too but with that construction, the shoulders hug your body more and there is a little less room for movement.
Going to see the first MBT. A quick fit check (Cresent + Pommella):
View attachment 2156513
The pieces were looking smashing. A green herringbone SB and a beige 6x1 DB.
View attachment 2156517
View attachment 2156515
Nothing much to say about the flawless fit. I am a big fan of his style, particularly the single breasted model.
View attachment 2156519
View attachment 2156521
Next commission: this turquoise from Loro Piana's new SS24 Proposte Giacche collection. Have a good feeling about this one!
View attachment 2156523
Aint no way I was gonna make that rookie mistake 😂 The tailor is so low profile he doesn’t have branded hangers anyway 😚I was like "This fool! He gave away his MBT...its right there on the hanger!"
Then I googled "Manetti" and found out its just a hanger manufacturer...
The m in mbt is manettiI was like "This fool! He gave away his MBT...its right there on the hanger!"
Then I googled "Manetti" and found out its just a hanger manufacturer...
Yes, we’ll keep him around!good your dry cleaner didn't f'up your lapel