Professor Χάος
Senior Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2020
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I like Attolini as well. In terms of RTW silhouette, only Kiton can compete, although I own an older Orazio Luciano which is great, and seems to contain more hand-work than my most recent Attolini. I also bought a Sartoria Partenopea long ago, which looked like it was entirely hand-made. I would like to acquire more SP suits to compare them.Definitely advise reading through Jeffery D's blog.
Attolini is my favorite maker, and I do not view it as deceptive marketing that they use "made entirely by hand", and I think what is missing from this discussion is a distinction between hand (machine sewn), and hand stitched.
I have a number of Attolini RTW shirts, and it looks to me like the side seams may be hand machine sewn, but back yoke, sleeve attachments, cuffs, and buttonholes are all hand stitched. It makes sense to me for the larger main body panels of a shirt to be machine sewn as those seams need to be very durable and for proper drape, I would think highly even and consistent seams is a plus.
My sense is their sportcoats and suits is where they put in the highest levels of true hand work/stitching.
However, as far as: hand-guided through a sewing machine vs hand-made, I was wondering what would count as "machine made"? Can Canali also claim to be "entirely made by hand" if its tailors use sewing machines to make them? How about Jos A Banks (I'm not really sure how they're made)? My question is: if hand-guided sewing machines can be described as "hand made" in some sense, then what would constitute "machine made"? Robots?
I'm also under no illusion that hand-made is necessarily superior to sewing-machine made, but I don't like being told that my suit is completely hand-made, with pictures of tailors sewing suits by hand, only to discover that my suit is made otherwise.