SPIER & MACKAY - Official Affiliate Thread

[James1051]

took delivery of one of the long point collar shirts this weekend, looks great and honestly not much different from the Italian spread apart from maybe being slightly less “spread” to my eye. I was disappointed to find though they didn’t have any slots for collar stiffeners. I’ll see how it wears but if the collar pings out, it would look pretty silly

And yes the LP collars ping out and ride on top of the lapel


Its a look I guess but not one I take an instant liking to. Without a jacket the LP gives you a wing look. The flying nun

A pair of flexible plastic stays needed

 

[edinatlanta]

And yes the LP collars ping out and ride on top of the lapel

View attachment 1830075
Its a look I guess but not one I take an instant liking to. Without a jacket the LP gives you a wing look. The flying nun
View attachment 1830076
A pair of flexible plastic stays needed

Wait until you learn about the power of metal stays.


Just bought 1 of the last 3 double breasted suits in medium brown. NGL I have a feeling this won't be a super long-term item in my wardrobe but I like it enough that at that price, 3/4 wears is enough. If it had one less of something (either SB or no ticket pocket) I'm sure it would be worn for years to come. But, whatever it isn't that much money in the SF world.

 

[blewnote1]

Has anyone ever received a suit with missing tags?

When SM restocked their “core suits,” I was excited to purchase my first suit. However, it’s been sitting in the drawer ever since, still basted and unhemmed in the suit bag it was shipped with. I just tried it on very briefly and realized that the fit is too off for me to likely tailor well. Maybe next time.

However, I just submitted a return request, and I noticed one important thing: the tag is somehow missing? I definitely did not cut it off, since it’s been sitting in the drawer in the suit bag this entire time. I’m worried now because SM might not accept this return. Everything else is perfect—basted and unhemmed and unworn. Does anyone have advice on how to proceed? Thank you.

Pictures below for reference. I hope SM can help me figure this out.

I assume you mean the thing that has the item name and price on it? If so, yes, I've received pants that had no tag on them, but the string was still attached. I may also have received some that didn't even have the string for the tag on them but I'm not sure. I would reach out to customer service and let them know that's how they came.

 

[manowar]

Saw this photo in the news recently, so you might be onto something. @James1051

 

[Moo Wenwu]

I assume you mean the thing that has the item name and price on it? If so, yes, I've received pants that had no tag on them, but the string was still attached. I may also have received some that didn't even have the string for the tag on them but I'm not sure. I would reach out to customer service and let them know that's how they came.

Okay, glad this wasn’t just me then. I just reached out to them, but they haven’t responded.

updated: SM just got back to me! They’re accepting the return. All good. Happy to report a good customer service moment.

 

[ericgereghty]

I have a mid grey suit made out of the same bunch/book. It's a high quality fabric and at the price point in full canvas, it can't be beaten. But, I actually prefer the solid flannel fabrics from VBC that Spier offers in the custom section.

The Minnis flannel is woolen flannel, which is classic/traditional. You can't go wrong with it but it also tends to sag, loose its shape and won't hold a sharp crease by the end of the day. The fabric has a pajama feel to it. Woolen flannel tends to also not be as durable as worsted flannel. It's super cozy though.

The VBC fabric on the other hand is a hybrid/mix between worsted and woolen. It holds an excellent crease, doesn't loose its shape, is more sturdy/robust and as such is more durable. You won't get the same kind of feeling and look as a woolen flannel of course, but it looks great nevertheless. My preference is definitely towards the VBC flannel.

VBC mid grey to the left and Minnis mid grey to the right. The navy and charcoal are VBC.

View attachment 1830035 View attachment 1830036



Team jetted/besom pockets here. Especially for solid fabrics. I don't mind patch pockets on more casual solid fabrics like fresco. But never ticket pockets. The ticket pocket this year seems to also peak out more/higher than before. Not a good look imo.

At the risk of being the turd in the punchbowl, neither would be a buy at full price for me. I don't love flannel, largely for the reasons you mentioned and I'm lazy about trouser crease maintenance (when I actually do wear pants lol), and I don't love patch pockets on suits, particularly on more "conservative" ones.
Basically, if I'd never get it made to measure/order with the same details, it'll be hard for me to justify it. If it hangs around for a sale, I'd likely get one of the two.

I suspect I'm in the minority here but man do I miss the Neo suit offerings being half-canvas. Of course $700 for a full-canvas suit is incredible value for money and I imagine in a post-covid world, S&M have had to pivot their tailoring towards more 'die-hard' aficionados but for me, especially with the cost of everything in life going up so drastically, I just can't justify spending that kind of money on ANY clothes, regardless of how good the value is.

Luckily I grabbed both the charcoal and navy flannel suits last time but I was hoping in the summer to pick up a navy fresco suit and when those dropped they were full canvas too. Now seeing the same with the flannel, I wonder if the suits will all move that way.

They're definitely not all, from the look of last season. Perhaps just the premium leaning cloth. I will say, however, that the basic half canvas Neos are checking in at ~$500 currently. That's obviously different than $675-700, but not so dramatic that it would dissuade me from something I really wanted.
But overall point taken, and I don't fully disagree. I still enjoy and get much use of my half canvassed Neos.

 

[DonRaphael]

At the risk of being the turd in the punchbowl, neither would be a buy at full price for me. I don't love flannel, largely for the reasons you mentioned and I'm lazy about trouser crease maintenance (when I actually do wear pants lol), and I don't love patch pockets on suits, particularly on more "conservative" ones.
Basically, if I'd never get it made to measure/order with the same details, it'll be hard for me to justify it. If it hangs around for a sale, I'd likely get one of the two.

They're definitely not all, from the look of last season. Perhaps just the premium leaning cloth. I will say, however, that the basic half canvas Neos are checking in at ~$500 currently. That's obviously different than $675-700, but not so dramatic that it would dissuade me from something I really wanted.
But overall point taken, and I don't fully disagree. I still enjoy and get much use of my half canvassed Neos.

Totally get it. That's why I I got mine MTO and not RTW: to not having to deal with patch pockets.

The VBC flannel is actually low maintenance. The crease holds up fairly well.

I love seasonal fabrics: high twist fabrics for SS and tweed/flannel for FW. I have the year round fabrics for formal suits as well, but seasonal fabrics are a joy. When you really get into developing your wardrobe, seasonal fabrics are the way to go imo.

Below pics of the same hybrid VBC fabric but as a navy chalkstripe. The fabric is very sharp.

 

[ericgereghty]

Totally get it. That's why I I got mine MTO and not RTW: to not having to deal with patch pockets.

The VBC flannel is actually low maintenance. The crease holds up fairly well.

I love seasonal fabrics: high twist fabrics for SS and tweed/flannel for FW. I have the year round fabrics for formal suits as well, but seasonal fabrics are a joy. When you really get into developing your wardrobe, seasonal fabrics are the way to go imo.

Below pics of the same hybrid VBC fabric but as a navy chalkstripe. The fabric is very sharp. View attachment 1830230 View attachment 1830231 View attachment 1830232 View attachment 1830233

I do very much enjoy seasonal cloths. Have just never been overly fond of flannel.

 

[JTrent82]

I do very much enjoy seasonal cloths. Have just never been overly fond of flannel.

I love flannel but I have Australian Shepherds so sadly I can't wear it.

 

[An Acute Style]

Yeah, I'ma need that.

 

[7_rocket]

Question.

Does the Italian button-down collar look unproportional to someone with a 15.5 neck? Especially when a tie is not worn, which this something I rarely wear.

 

[Click821]

Question.

Does the Italian button-down collar look unproportional to someone with a 15.5 neck? Especially when a tie is not worn, which this something I rarely wear.

I'm a 15.5 neck. I enjoy the proportions. I never wear a tie either. Hope this helps!

 

[7_rocket]

@Click821

Looks good on you. I think the next dress shirt I pick up, I"ll give the Italian DB a go

 

[wilcthree]

Question.

Does the Italian button-down collar look unproportional to someone with a 15.5 neck? Especially when a tie is not worn, which this something I rarely wear.

I'm a 15.5 neck and a frequent wearer of the Italian bd collar, which I most often sport sans tie. I don't think it looks disproportionate at all.

 

[JayDee90]

I'm a 15.5 neck. I enjoy the proportions. I never wear a tie either. Hope this helps! View attachment 1830248 View attachment 1830249

Is a 15.5 your true size? Not sure if just the angle but could you go down a size in the neck/are you between sizes? I see lots of people with collars that are too large in circumference for their necks