The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[St1X]

As mentioned, worse than ideal is not BAD. Unless you're using your tailoring trekking through insanely humid jungles, you're unlikely to notice dramatic differences (marginal ones, no doubt) in the wear/tear and long term viability of the garment.

As with most things, truth lies in the grey area between extremes.

The difference is that fusing will come off eventually creating bubbles on the front of the jacket. Washing or dry cleaning would speed up this process a lot. Can't complain about that in a jacket for 200-300$ but not in a 3.5k$ suit

 

[ericgereghty]

The difference is that fusing will come off eventually creating bubbles on the front of the jacket. Washing or dry cleaning would speed up this process a lot. Can't complain about that in a jacket for 200-300$ but not in a 3.5k$ suit

I don't agree that it's bad, per se. Worse than FC, sure, and absolutely no business being on a suit that expensive, but not BAD.

I'll leave my initial sentiment here lol. A HC jacket is hardly ideal. Should not even consider buying something HC for $3500...that doesn't mean the world is going to explode if you have an HC jacket at a semi-reasonable price.

Again, not ideal. At all. Also, not BAD...so this useless back and forth ends where it began

 

[JohnMRobie]

I don't agree that it's bad, per se. Worse than FC, sure, and absolutely no business being on a suit that expensive, but not BAD.

I'll leave my initial sentiment here lol. A HC jacket is hardly ideal. Should not even consider buying something HC for $3500...that doesn't mean the world is going to explode if you have an HC jacket at a semi-reasonable price.

Again, not ideal. At all. Also, not BAD...so this useless back and forth ends where it began

The debates about fusing would be far more interesting if half the ready to wear companies claiming their product is handmade and fully canvassed didn’t have fusing hidden inside along with all the machine work anyways. 👀

 

[Sneaky Pete]

The jacket I just ordered from the HK tailor is HC. I went with a plain black wool from a VBC subsidiary (From what I understand good quality, but not premium). I’m probably going to wear this 2 to 3 times a year at most. It’s unlikely to be washed and laundered so often that I develop issues with fusing. (After 16 years My wedding suit is still in excellent condition and I wore that more often). Given how infrequently I will wear it, the material and construction are absolutely good enough for me; what is more important is the fit and how it feels on me.
I understand that modern fusing have less issues with bubbling and separation than they used to.
The tailor also confirmed something I had always suspected, which is that my shoulders are proportionately broad compared to my chest and waist, which makes finding things which fit me quite tricky. I also have long arms.

 

[classicalthunde]

I've seen a lot of love around this site for Divij's work! I hadn't really considered bespoke as an option - what would you say are some advantages to going bespoke for a black tux? I love the idea of a truly unique fit, but since the differences between black tuxes tend to be in the minute details, and my measurements aren't particularly out-of-the-box, I'm curious as to what makes bespoke stand apart in this context.

If you're local to Divij, I think 3 months could work (although it might be tight if you want the additional basted fitting). I've been very happy with my suit/sport coats I've gotten from him and would come in well under the RLPL tux...

As far as advantages go, aside from the fit factor:
- you will get to chose your fabric (wool or a mohair blend, midnight or black, heavy or light, etc.)
- you will also get to chose your details...very few RTW options get all the black tie details right
- you'd be in control of what you want and how strict you want to adhere (e.g. vents or no, side adjusters, etc.)
- you'd have better fabric inlays for future alterations, thereby increasing the chance that this could be your black tie rig for life

 

[hpreston]

Hey black tie aficionados, I'm getting married at the end of June and would love some tuxedo advice. I've narrowed down my search to two options: a Samuelsohn tuxedo from Sy Devore in Los Angeles, or the Gregory tuxedo from Ralph Lauren Purple Label. Both are RTW, as my proportions tend to fit well into off the rack suits. The Samuelsohn suit is fully canvassed, and significantly less expensive, coming in at $1500. The RLPL tuxedo is $3500, and half-canvassed, but the feel of the wool barathea from St. Andrews is plush and decadent, and the cut of the peak lapel is more dramatic and slightly wider than the conservative Samuelsohn design. Naturally they'll both need tailoring: Sy Devore offers tailoring for all of the clothes sold in the store, and have a MTM program too so they'd do the tailoring in-house, Ralph Lauren has in-store tailors as well (the Beverly Hills location, where I'd be getting the suit, also offer MTM, if that effects the quality of the in-store tailoring).

I can't find too much information online about either of these brands in terms of build quality, longevity, materials - or even just opinions in general. If I want something that's fit for my own wedding, and then that I can proudly wear to all of my friends' weddings, or any other black tie event for years to come, do either of these options stand out to you as an obvious choice? Are there any factors that I haven't considered yet and should be when deciding between the two?

I know there’s been much discussion, but why not get a made to order or made to measure tux in full canvass from Sy (Samuelsohn) in an upgraded fabric? Best of both worlds, full canvass construction, fabric similar to the RLPL tux? And it’ll likely still be significantly less that the half canvass RL piece.

 

[DorianGreen]

Unconventional, but great looking.

 

[mlstein]

I posted this in Ask Andy but nobody has been able to help:

I'm an appellate lawyer and academic, and I have never needed a tux; although I'm generally among the most formally dressed people at the events we go to they're not super formal (and that bar is low anyway). I'm giving a paper this June in London, though, and we've splurged on tickets to Garsington Opera and plan on going to the Royal Ballet, too. I have a crisp but lightly structured navy double-breasted suit, which seems like the only thing I own that would be remotely appropriate, but Garsington especially sounds like a bastion of evening dress and the ballet is an opening night. Will I look like a yokel in my suit and tie? Should I break down and get a tux, and after we return just resign myself to overdressing for the fun of it at the opera in Toronto?

I'm especially interested in responses from those who've been to Garsington.

 

[WhereNext]

Unconventional, but great looking.

View attachment 2144633 View attachment 2144635 View attachment 2144637

Could @UrbanComposition (or anyone else who might know) tell me what the fabric is for the cuffs and lapels on this robe?

 

[hollandn]

I posted this in Ask Andy but nobody has been able to help:

I'm an appellate lawyer and academic, and I have never needed a tux; although I'm generally among the most formally dressed people at the events we go to they're not super formal (and that bar is low anyway). I'm giving a paper this June in London, though, and we've splurged on tickets to Garsington Opera and plan on going to the Royal Ballet, too. I have a crisp but lightly structured navy double-breasted suit, which seems like the only thing I own that would be remotely appropriate, but Garsington especially sounds like a bastion of evening dress and the ballet is an opening night. Will I look like a yokel in my suit and tie? Should I break down and get a tux, and after we return just resign myself to overdressing for the fun of it at the opera in Toronto?

I'm especially interested in responses from those who've been to Garsington.

Certainly at Garsington most people will be wearing evening wear. If you are never planning on wearing again have you thought of hiring when you get here. Have a look at Buckleigh who are a distinct notch above the regular High Street places. Classic stuff and great service. Have a look. See website. https://buckleighoflondon.com/black-tie

 

[mlstein]

Certainly at Garsington most people will be wearing evening wear. If you are never planning on wearing again have you thought of hiring when you get here. Have a look at Buckleigh who are a distinct notch above the regular High Street places. Classic stuff and great service. Have a look. See website. https://buckleighoflondon.com/black-tie

Thank you! As it happens I'm going to be going to Garsington from Oxford, which I hadn't mentioned because I wasn't thinking of hiring formal wear, and I'm arriving there the day before the opera. I guess I like to make things difficult for myself....

 

[eddyroxx]

Could @UrbanComposition (or anyone else who might know) tell me what the fabric is for the cuffs and lapels on this robe?

Looks like persian lamb

 

[DorianGreen]

 

[entatine]

Unconventional, but great looking.

View attachment 2144633 View attachment 2144635 View attachment 2144637

Any idea what the brands are for this outfit? I won't lie, I really like it.

 

[jeremygo]

After much planning, finally have ordered everything for my first black tie rig! Appreciate all the knowledge from this thread.

Have pulled the trigger on:

• Black single breasted, one button peak lapel tuxedo from No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara (wool/mohair blend from the Drapers Bingley bunch with satin facings)
• Covered placket tuxedo shirt from The Armoury x 100 Hands
• Cufflinks from Codis Maya
• Black satin bowtie and cummerbund from Sam Hober
• Will likely just get a high shine on my AE Park Avenues, rather than buy patent leather, but may change my mind on footwear as I get closer