What's wrong with my MTM suit jacket?

[SDW]

Dear forum members,
I'm seeking some advice on what might be wrong with my MTM suit jacket.
To my opinion it opens up too much to the front at the front-bottom.
At first the waist seemed to be too small, but even though this has been enlarged now, the issue persists.
I'm pretty sure the waist is ok now. I can fit my fist between my stomach and the button of the jacket, so I definitely a 2 inches of room .
I'm wondering if something should be changed at the area of the shoulder to bring the front lower and closer to my body.
According to the tailor it's because the fabric of the satin it tougher then the suit's fabric itself, pulling it up. But that doesn't solve the fit of course...
Your opinion would be much appreciated!
I'm attaching some pictures for reference.
Thanks!

 

[breakaway01]

A straight-on frontal view would be helpful so that we can see what you mean by the jacket opening up too much at the bottom of the fronts (not sure why you have two photos of the back and four from the side but none from the front).
But that being said, there seem to be at least two major problems with the jacket.
- I think the main reason for your perception that the jacket opens up too much in front is that the front balance of the jacket seems to be very short. By this I mean that there isn't enough fabric in the upper part of the front of the jacket to get over your chest and upper belly. From the side picture you can see that the whole jacket body looks like it is tipped/rotated forward because of this short front balance.
- a separate issue is that the jacket is very short in the jacket body. It should, at a minimum, cover your rear
- less significant but still important are the sleeves. The sleeve pitch is very off, I think, and they might be a little tight but I'm not as sure about that.

the first two issues cannot be fixed by alteration; they would require a complete remake. My question would be whether your tailor can also see these issues. If they cannot, I'd ask for a refund, since it would be unlikely that they would know how to address them properly.

 

[SDW]

A straight-on frontal view would be helpful so that we can see what you mean by the jacket opening up too much at the bottom of the fronts (not sure why you have two photos of the back and four from the side but none from the front).
But that being said, there seem to be at least two major problems with the jacket.
- I think the main reason for your perception that the jacket opens up too much in front is that the front balance of the jacket seems to be very short. By this I mean that there isn't enough fabric in the upper part of the front of the jacket to get over your chest and upper belly. From the side picture you can see that the whole jacket body looks like it is tipped/rotated forward because of this short front balance.
- a separate issue is that the jacket is very short in the jacket body. It should, at a minimum, cover your rear
- less significant but still important are the sleeves. The sleeve pitch is very off, I think, and they might be a little tight but I'm not as sure about that.

the first two issues cannot be fixed by alteration; they would require a complete remake. My question would be whether your tailor can also see these issues. If they cannot, I'd ask for a refund, since it would be unlikely that they would know how to address them properly.

Thanks a lot for your reply! The reason I didn't post a frontview is because what I mean by opening up at the front is best visible from the side view, like you can see on the picture where I drew a circle. For me the frontview looks pretty good. I'm adding a frontview attached. The bottom moving/tilting forward instead falling nice and flat isn't well visible on a frontview.
It does indeed feel like it should all shift to the front, starting from the shoulders. There is no forward shoulders alteration that might solve this? I thought what's described in this thread might solve it somehow?
The total length of the jacket I thought was fine as it's just on the height of the thumb knuckle.
I do agree the sleeve pitch is off. The tailor told me it's because of the cufflinks and he will see our next appointment if the sleeves should be enlarged, solving the wrinkling, and otherwise the sleeve pitch might need to be adjusted.

 

[othertravel]

Doesn't look very good. Can you return it?

 

[breakaway01]

Thanks a lot for your reply! The reason I didn't post a frontview is because what I mean by opening up at the front is best visible from the side view, like you can see on the picture where I drew a circle. For me the frontview looks pretty good. I'm adding a frontview attached. The bottom moving/tilting forward instead falling nice and flat isn't well visible on a frontview.
It does indeed feel like it should all shift to the front, starting from the shoulders. There is no forward shoulders alteration that might solve this? I thought what's described in this thread might solve it somehow?
The total length of the jacket I thought was fine as it's just on the height of the thumb knuckle.
I do agree the sleeve pitch is off. The tailor told me it's because of the cufflinks and he will see our next appointment if the sleeves should be enlarged, solving the wrinkling, and otherwise the sleeve pitch might need to be adjusted.

I think forward shoulders is a very different problem from a short front balance.

If the front balance needs to be lengthened there may be some fabric at the top of the fronts under the shoulder seam to let out but I am not a tailor and can't really comment on the feasibility of that approach.

Jacket length is clearly too short from the front view. Arm length is not a good way to judge because arms vary in length. Jacket should cover your rear and visually bisect your body (from the neck to the floor).

Now that you are showing us the whole suit, the trousers are also very slim. It makes you look top-heavy and unbalanced.

 

[SDW]

Doesn't look very good. Can you return it?

No... Getting married in this suit... Next week...

 

[Satmoche]

No... Getting married in this suit... Next week...

Considering the result, I would also ask for a refund.
If you live near a Spier & Mackay store, or a Suit Supply, I would get a ready-to-wear suit from there which may just be ready for the occasion, especially if you do stress out the urgency of the situation.

 

[Despos]

@SDW
You are clearly disappointed with the out come and with good reason.
Appears this is the first garment you have from this store. Maybe the first time you’ve been thru the MTM process.?

What type of wedding will you have?
How casual, formal or traditional will it be?
Will it be a small, medium or larger event?

What is your partner wearing? Does this tuxedo match that style? Is on the same level of styling and formality?
Will it clash?

How did you pick this cloth? Are you happy with this shade of blue? Is it what you expected/wanted?

Are there going to be groomsmen? What are they wearing?

Your answers will show how appropriate your choices are.

IMO, this shop failed to deliver a well fitting suit and failed with providing proper guidance. Their explanations of the causes of these issues are bogus.

The jacket balance is off. The fronts are hiking up. The back is big across the blades. The sleeves aren’t set properly. The vent doesn’t hang straight. If you do wear this for your wedding, ask them to close the vent and make it a ventless jacket. Everyone attending will be watching your back for the entirety of the service.
Did they let the jacket out to relieve the pulling on the front button? If so it was a mistake. The pulling is related to the balance issue.
The proportions do not flatter you. The jacket length isn’t at your knuckle it is more than an inch above it. Using the knuckle as a marker for jacket length is irrelevant.
Trousers are fitted so close, more like jeans than a tailored trouser. A fuller leg that hangs straight and not cling is much better and would be a better look with the jacket. Doubt there is enough outlet to make much improvement,
Looks like there are cuffs on the trousers. This is inappropriate for a tuxedo and should be changed to a plain bottom.
The styling of this suit reflects fashion trends that peaked about a decade ago. If that’s what you were after, that’s one thing but
you didn’t get any of the possible benefits of ordering a MTM tuxedo. The idea is to get a fit and styling that flatters your physique and persona. This silhouette already looks dated.
Take more pictures of you in this tux and decide if this is the look you want to be remembered in. Decide if it is appropriate or if it will come off as loud and a distraction. If not, find a decent suit that is line with the wedding motif. If you want a compromise, wear the suit for the wedding and this tuxedo for the reception.
Wouldn’t have made these comments if it was for anything besides a wedding.

 

[comrade]

@SDW
You are clearly disappointed with the out come and with good reason.
Appears this is the first garment you have from this store. Maybe the first time you’ve been thru the MTM process.?

What type of wedding will you have?
How casual, formal or traditional will it be?
Will it be a small, medium or larger event?

What is your partner wearing? Does this tuxedo match that style? Is on the same level of styling and formality?
Will it clash?

How did you pick this cloth? Are you happy with this shade of blue? Is it what you expected/wanted?

Are there going to be groomsmen? What are they wearing?

Your answers will show how appropriate your choices are.

IMO, this shop failed to deliver a well fitting suit and failed with providing proper guidance. Their explanations of the causes of these issues are bogus.

The jacket balance is off. The fronts are hiking up. The back is big across the blades. The sleeves aren’t set properly. The vent doesn’t hang straight. If you do wear this for your wedding, ask them to close the vent and make it a ventless jacket. Everyone attending will be watching your back for the entirety of the service.
Did they let the jacket out to relieve the pulling on the front button? If so it was a mistake. The pulling is related to the balance issue.
The proportions do not flatter you. The jacket length isn’t at your knuckle it is more than an inch above it. Using the knuckle as a marker for jacket length is irrelevant.
Trousers are fitted so close, more like jeans than a tailored trouser. A fuller leg that hangs straight and not cling is much better and would be a better look with the jacket. Doubt there is enough outlet to make much improvement,
Looks like there are cuffs on the trousers. This is inappropriate for a tuxedo and should be changed to a plain bottom.
The styling of this suit reflects fashion trends that peaked about a decade ago. If that’s what you were after, that’s one thing but
you didn’t get any of the possible benefits of ordering a MTM tuxedo. The idea is to get a fit and styling that flatters your physique and persona. This silhouette already looks dated.
Take more pictures of you in this tux and decide if this is the look you want to be remembered in. Decide if it is appropriate or if it will come off as loud and a distraction. If not, find a decent suit that is line with the wedding motif. If you want a compromise, wear the suit for the wedding and this tuxedo for the reception.
Wouldn’t have made these comments if it was for anything besides a wedding.

 

[SDW]

@SDW
You are clearly disappointed with the out come and with good reason.
Appears this is the first garment you have from this store. Maybe the first time you’ve been thru the MTM process.?

@Despos
Thanks for taking your time to reply!
It’s not that I am incredibly disappointed with the outcome concerning the design. Many design elements are of my own choice, but the fit is more what I have an issue with. Indeed first mtm experience.

What type of wedding will you have?
How casual, formal or traditional will it be?
Will it be a small, medium or larger event?

Formal/Traditional, large.

What is your partner wearing? Does this tuxedo match that style? Is on the same level of styling and formality?
Will it clash?

It should be ok.

How did you pick this cloth? Are you happy with this shade of blue? Is it what you expected/wanted?

I am. Wanted a tux, but different from any other tux. Hence choose a lighter blue. The lapels could have been more subtle, but already choose 1cm smaller from their regular smallest lapel size.

Are there going to be groomsmen? What are they wearing?

My dad and and brother have the exact same tux. The fit is better at them. I have 3 piece and black bowtie, they have 2 piece and white bowtie.

Your answers will show how appropriate your choices are.

IMO, this shop failed to deliver a well fitting suit and failed with providing proper guidance. Their explanations of the causes of these issues are bogus.

The jacket balance is off. The fronts are hiking up. The back is big across the blades. The sleeves aren’t set properly. The vent doesn’t hang straight. If you do wear this for your wedding, ask them to close the vent and make it a ventless jacket. Everyone attending will be watching your back for the entirety of the service.
Did they let the jacket out to relieve the pulling on the front button? If so it was a mistake. The pulling is related to the balance issue.

It was first taken in 3cm to look like a slimmer fit and then let back out 1.5cm to adres the pulling.
About the balance, no alterations possible that can make it better?

The proportions do not flatter you. The jacket length isn’t at your knuckle it is more than an inch above it. Using the knuckle as a marker for jacket length is irrelevant.

I suppose a jacket can not be made longer anymore?

Trousers are fitted so close, more like jeans than a tailored trouser. A fuller leg that hangs straight and not cling is much better and would be a better look with the jacket. Doubt there is enough outlet to make much improvement,
Looks like there are cuffs on the trousers. This is inappropriate for a tuxedo and should be changed to a plain bottom.

I like a slimmer pants, but understand that it might not be in balance with the jacket. Pants does not have cuffs.

The styling of this suit reflects fashion trends that peaked about a decade ago. If that’s what you were after, that’s one thing but
you didn’t get any of the possible benefits of ordering a MTM tuxedo. The idea is to get a fit and styling that flatters your physique and persona. This silhouette already looks dated.
Take more pictures of you in this tux and decide if this is the look you want to be remembered in. Decide if it is appropriate or if it will come off as loud and a distraction. If not, find a decent suit that is line with the wedding motif. If you want a compromise, wear the suit for the wedding and this tuxedo for the reception.
Wouldn’t have made these comments if it was for anything besides a wedding.

 

[comrade]

This comment might actually be a "Duh!". However, I have noted an an increasing
number of "Wedding Suit" ads on Style Forum and other fora. It seems to be a way
that the proliferating MTM "custom tailoring" companies are selling problematic (in many cases) tailoring services to a generation of clients who have little or no experience with tailored clothing. I am of an earlier generation who has worn tailored clothing since the age of about eight- not counting the Eton Suit I was forced to wear at age six. Despite my experience, I have had several MTM catastrophes over the years.

 

[taxgenius]

Are you willing to share who made it?

 

[SDW]

Are you willing to share who made it?

Blandin & Delloye

 

[jeremygo]

Where are you located? I'm sure the forum could help you locate a shop with RTW suiting that can be tailored (*smash glass in case of emergency speed*) for the event.

 

[SDW]

Where are you located? I'm sure the forum could help you locate a shop with RTW suiting that can be tailored (*smash glass in case of emergency speed*) for the event.

Belgium… 😅