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Help: Collar Gap is killing me

tdang

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2014
Messages
175
Reaction score
1,179
Hi fellas,

I recently caught the 'jacket collar glued to shirt collar' bug, and it's killing me that my jacket collar is not doing what it is supposed to be doing: gluing to the shirt collar. I have since done a lot of research on collar gaps, and found that in addition to a collar that is too large, other elements that can constitute a collar gap include off-balanced shoulders and tight chest. I'm fairly confident that my jacket is not too tight in the chest, as it wears comfortably and the front fits very cleanly. So my question is: how can you tell if the shoulders are cut to the correct angle? I can tell if it's too tight, but I am a novice at examining the angle. And can a curved back be a culprit in this? I have a very curved back, and while I'd like to think that the tailor did a decent job on the back, the collar is still somewhat affected from the curve of the back and my usually stooped posture. Pictures are coming soon to give you an idea, but until then I'd be very grateful if I can get some input of the experts around here as I'm thinking of getting the tailor to re-make the collar.
 

Murlsquirl

The Moral Squirrel
Dubiously Honored
Moderator
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
9,318
Reaction score
12,522
Hi fellas,

I recently caught the 'jacket collar glued to shirt collar' bug, and it's killing me that my jacket collar is not doing what it is supposed to be doing: gluing to the shirt collar. I have since done a lot of research on collar gaps, and found that in addition to a collar that is too large, other elements that can constitute a collar gap include off-balanced shoulders and tight chest. I'm fairly confident that my jacket is not too tight in the chest, as it wears comfortably and the front fits very cleanly. So my question is: how can you tell if the shoulders are cut to the correct angle? I can tell if it's too tight, but I am a novice at examining the angle. And can a curved back be a culprit in this? I have a very curved back, and while I'd like to think that the tailor did a decent job on the back, the collar is still somewhat affected from the curve of the back and my usually stooped posture. Pictures are coming soon to give you an idea, but until then I'd be very grateful if I can get some input of the experts around here as I'm thinking of getting the tailor to re-make the collar.

I think you'll get the best advice here, td http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions
 

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