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Stylewords

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Thought I'd update on this as I've just took delivery of a SS24 Clissold suit, which is superb.

In my normal S&M size which I've taken for 5+ years, the front and back rise on the new high rise is much improved. There is more room in the upper block, i.e hip and thigh as someone recently posted on the side by side pics, this is a welcome change for me.

From the knee downwards I'd like a little less taper, leg opening on a 34 contemporary is 8". Could have done with an additional 0.5" on the half measurement then they would have been close to my MTM specs, but for RTW I'm very happy.

Some additional updates are on the way for the FW24 pattern which will add a bit more fullness.
An 8-inch opening, particularly with fuller upper block, is just comical. It's a mystery why they do this. It doesn't look good.
 

XxLogo

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Fossati in Como has all of the existing looms now so I think you assumption is correct.
So I asked Rick on Instagram. Looks like they worked with a factory in China who bought old looms and refurbished them to working condition. Took about 2 years.

So, the fabric is both made and cut in China.
 

dapperclassic

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How did you come across this info/what are the actual updates?

Hate to beat the dead horse, but boy would it be great if there was a forum S&M paid for that they might utilize to keep consumers abreast of such things!

Not my style, but that looks amazing! Great tweedy vibes in a summery coat without being overly drab in color

Rick confirmed the rise had been changed and reshaped for more room/comfort, I haven't taken a tape measure to them to quantify what the actual measurement changes are, but it is noticeable as soon as you put them on.
 

ericgereghty

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An 8-inch opening, particularly with fuller upper block, is just comical. It's a mystery why they do this. It doesn't look good.
I suppose I'd ask what you'd realistically expect with RTW? You're just not going to get 9" openings, unless you're talking about a (very) niche brand. Whatever SM may or may not be, based on their model photos, they clearly aren't hitting that niche.
Rick confirmed the rise had been changed and reshaped for more room/comfort, I haven't taken a tape measure to them to quantify what the actual measurement changes are, but it is noticeable as soon as you put them on.
Ahhhh, so nothing newer still to come?
 

losrockets

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I suppose I'd ask what you'd realistically expect with RTW? You're just not going to get 9" openings, unless you're talking about a (very) niche brand. Whatever SM may or may not be, based on their model photos, they clearly aren't hitting that niche.

Ahhhh, so nothing newer still to come?
8.5. It seems beyond reasonable for contemporary trousers in a 34w given the silhouette of the matching +6-8 jacket. I have this same problem when I wear S&M OTR pants.
 

BlueSteel

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Much of the clothing that comes out of Italy is made by Chinese workers.

That may be true, but I do think this is an interesting development. For years I understood Italy (and specifically Como) had a lock on grenadine material. And I found that grenadine ties were relatively expensive and rarely discounted. With S&M jumping in using Chinese-made material plus Chinese construction of the ties, I'd expect lower pricing right out of the gate (anyone know what they will be initially offered for?)...plus some of the usual significant S&M discounting along the product cycle.
 

CLH03

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That may be true, but I do think this is an interesting development. For years I understood Italy (and specifically Como) had a lock on grenadine material. And I found that grenadine ties were relatively expensive and rarely discounted. With S&M jumping in using Chinese-made material plus Chinese construction of the ties, I'd expect lower pricing right out of the gate (anyone know what they will be initially offered for?)...plus some of the usual significant S&M discounting along the product cycle.
They were up for about 30 minutes at around $65 USD I believe. Not sure why they took them down but looked like some decent colors and stripes. I’ll probably grab a couple
 

Rhodia

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They were up for about 30 minutes at around $65 USD I believe. Not sure why they took them down but looked like some decent colors and stripes. I’ll probably grab a couple
They look to be doing a website update. A number of items and categories missing.

The ties were $68USD.
 

7_rocket

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Was in store over the weekend and picked up a few items. I picked up a clearance shirt which I believe is a lightweight OCBD as the tag just said clearance shirt. It was much softer and lighter than the regular OCBD which is heavy and thick so that makes me assume it's the lightweight version.

If it is, then def a fan of this version.
 

DapperPhilly

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That may be true, but I do think this is an interesting development. For years I understood Italy (and specifically Como) had a lock on grenadine material. And I found that grenadine ties were relatively expensive and rarely discounted. With S&M jumping in using Chinese-made material plus Chinese construction of the ties, I'd expect lower pricing right out of the gate (anyone know what they will be initially offered for?)...plus some of the usual significant S&M discounting along the product cycle.
I've purchased 3 grenadine ties from @Kent Wang and really hard to beat the price for the quality.
That said I have never delved into any S&M accessories.
 

DapperPhilly

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I have recently ordered 2 OTR and 2 custom suits from SS. I have purchased about 4 OTR suits from S&M, including two this month.
I sent all the SS suits back including the two I went to Miami to be measured for.

I really feel that while SS has many more options for suits and SC's, they can't compete with S&M
for what I get for my $$$$.
Perhaps it is a quality control issue with SS as they are a very large company vs a much smaller S&M.
But I won't be buying any more suits from SS. Not that they are terrible, just not for me.
I am lucky that S&M 42 slim fits me with at the most, sleeve shortened .25 inch.

😁 I was not paid for this promotion 😁
 

BlueSteel

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I've purchased 3 grenadine ties from @Kent Wang and really hard to beat the price for the quality.
That said I have never delved into any S&M accessories.

Thanks - I never checked out Kent Wang, but will do so. I have 2 grenadine ties at the moment - one was from Shibumi Firenze (black) and the other is from our member, Amide Hadelin (gold/taupe). With both of these I was able to order a longer and wider than standard tie...which I love.

Does S&M use a standard width for all ties? If so, anyone know what it is?
 

XxLogo

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That may be true, but I do think this is an interesting development. For years I understood Italy (and specifically Como) had a lock on grenadine material. And I found that grenadine ties were relatively expensive and rarely discounted. With S&M jumping in using Chinese-made material plus Chinese construction of the ties, I'd expect lower pricing right out of the gate (anyone know what they will be initially offered for?)...plus some of the usual significant S&M discounting along the product cycle.
This was my main point when Rick said this to me, competition is good.

Said they were already working on Fina and Shantung ties
 

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