• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • Last Day to save 20% sitewide at Kirby Allison's annual Father's Day Sale! !

    Kirby Allison is one of Styleforum's original success stories, beginning long ago with Kirby;s Hanger Project. Every year, Kirby holds a Father's Day Sale featuring some of the best accessories and shoe care products in the world. Take this opportunity to get something for your father, grandfather, or yourself, at a rare 20% discount (discount taken automatically at the checkout). See if you find that perfect hanger, shoe cream, or watch case here

    Enjoy

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

jischwar

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2012
Messages
7,271
Reaction score
17,587
Iconic or not, imo Vass' F last is far superior to both EG's 82/202 and GG's GG06 lasts in terms of aesthetics. But that's a personal preference of course.


The EG is out of his balance/symmetry, imo.
View attachment 2022517

The 82 is a little snoutier, the 202 is classic, the F the golden mean, imo.
View attachment 2022519
EG 82/202 are more anatomical, probably why they fit people better
 

MrFingers

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
860
Reaction score
2,052
Iconic or not, imo Vass' F last is far superior to both EG's 82/202 and GG's GG06 lasts in terms of aesthetics. But that's a personal preference of course.


The EG is out of his balance/symmetry, imo.
View attachment 2022517

The 82 is a little snoutier, the 202 is classic, the F the golden mean, imo.
View attachment 2022519
Agreed. I had the opportunity to get the EG over the vass at the same price.

But I think the difference between the lasts isn’t stated here and it’s something a lot of people don’t think about. The balance of non elongated lasts.

You’ll see a lot of people with long feet for their height wearing super elongated shoes and it just throws the entire thing out of balance. Even if the details look better (arguably and subjective) on EG, the last isn’t as balanced but ofc this point only applies to those with larger feet to height ratio.

I have 2 Dovers on 606 last and they’re both really nice, both EG and Vass feel like a tank. That being said, I wouldn’t get EG oxfords or regular derbies I think they only stand out on Piccadilly design and split toe derbies. The vass design is pretty remarkable for derbies and oxfords from what I’ve seen.
 

acconrad

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2009
Messages
1,029
Reaction score
594
EG 82/202 are more anatomical, probably why they fit people better
That's it for me. Also, personally, I like the 82 compared to F just looking at those pictures you compared. To each his own
 

Son Of Saphir

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
Messages
1,571
Reaction score
878
Really that MUCH BETTER than GYW EG and Lobb ?

Yes.
Vass soles are sewn differently than E.G/Lobb rtw.
Vass welts are attached differently than E.G/Lobb.
Vass hand usually construction has the effect of having shoe molding better to foot.
The nature of machine construction restricts the molding effect on foot.
Top shoemakers have also discussed these things.

Look at the Budapest last shoe with double sole.
Flexible and almost feel like a sneaker.

Vass is world's apart from factory shoe.
It feel very different to shoe connoisseur.
 
Last edited:

Son Of Saphir

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
Messages
1,571
Reaction score
878
To me...
Wearing Lobb or EG is like wearing a box on the foot.
Wearing Lattanzi or Vass is like wearing a shoe on the foot.
The real deal shoe experience comes from a combination of hand welted and hand stitched soles. Many on the forums don't seem to realise this,
but some men do know.
Artisinal constructions are done for many reasons.
 

SimonC

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 13, 2007
Messages
2,487
Reaction score
2,901
To me...
Wearing Lobb or EG is like wearing a box on the foot.
Wearing Lattanzi or Vass is like wearing a shoe on the foot.
The real deal shoe experience comes from a combination of hand welted and hand stitched soles. Many on the forums don't seem to realise this,
but some men do know.
Artisinal constructions are done for many reasons.
This ^^^ but to the last point above, it’s better experienced with a traditional Vass last like the P2 or Budapester. I appreciate my U-last shoes for a different reason, but they’re not quite as comfortable :)

And to add some interest - here’s my latest order, U last loafers….

IMG_3140.jpeg
 

Son Of Saphir

Distinguished Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2009
Messages
1,571
Reaction score
878
Nicholas Templeman will also explain why a hand stitched soles are better than any machine stitched soles.
How a machine stitch impacts the functioning of a sole is vastly different from how a hand stitch impacts a sole's functioning.
 

MrFingers

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2021
Messages
860
Reaction score
2,052
Alt wien in brown museum calf with metal toe tips just came in. These are just glorious. Absolutely stunning. Next commission will likely be black cap toe oxfords and a pair of oxblood museum in some form.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0285.jpeg
    IMG_0285.jpeg
    335.2 KB · Views: 114
  • IMG_0286.jpeg
    IMG_0286.jpeg
    289.8 KB · Views: 122
  • IMG_0287.jpeg
    IMG_0287.jpeg
    306.5 KB · Views: 230
  • IMG_0288.jpeg
    IMG_0288.jpeg
    313.1 KB · Views: 260

Pascal1980

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2023
Messages
68
Reaction score
68
Hello everybody,

I am new in the styleforum, because since 1.5 years I am updating my wardrobe. In the past I really never cared. As all was worn out, not fitting in size, and my cheap cemented shoes fell apart despite best efforts of care, I invested into GYW shoes.

I am wearing mostly Heinrich-Dinkelacker in the slim "Milano" last and the regulat "Luzern" last. Also Lloyd 1888, which is probably not known at all in the USA, which are made in Sullingen, Germany. And a Crockett & Jones "Hoxton" on their 360 last, which now fits well but first was painfully narrow.

Now I tried the F-Last in VASS in UK 7,5, which fits quite well, and the U-Last in UK 8 that also fits well.

Question: Is the quality of the shoes still that high? They use LeFa in the heal block, nor real stacked leather. What I like are the MTO options, the bargain prices compared to Crockett & Jones, and that they can adjust the last a little bit.

Or do the englisch shoemakers from Northhampton still over an overall better quality, albeit at a higher price?

Best satorial regards and greetings from Frankfurt

Pascal
 

Pascal1980

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 27, 2023
Messages
68
Reaction score
68
Hello everybody,

the VASS test shoes arrived. The F-last in UK 7.5 / EU 41.5 fits nicely. Only a small pressure point under the "Oxford Half-Moon" as I have a slightly higher instep. That can be fixed the Mrs. Vello from VASS said. As I have a serve overpronation the heels to not touch the leather at the heel outside, which is normal. Maybe that can be fixed as well.

The U-Last in UK 8.5 is to roomy and long. Now pressure points at all and so far not to narrow. Yet it is a beautiful stylish last.

Here are photos. What do you think as you are more familiar with VASS?

Enjoy your evening and best regards

Pascal
20230927_132249.jpg
20230927_132341.jpg
20230927_132353.jpg
20230927_132353.jpg
20230927_133300.jpg
20230927_133408.jpg
 

Featured Sponsor

Do You Have a Signature Fragrance?

  • Yes, I have a signature fragrance I wear every day

  • Yes, I have a signature fragrance but I don't wear it daily

  • No, I have several fragrances and rotate through them

  • I don't wear fragrance


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
509,854
Messages
10,614,230
Members
225,044
Latest member
pablobob
Top