MyTailor (Hemrajani Bros.) Appreciation/Discussion Thread

[classicalthunde]

Separate topic - does anyone know if Divij does alterations for previous orders? I have a Drapers 5-star navy suit that was my first order from Joe, but I’ve lost 30ish pounds since then, so its a bit big on me these days.

I have a local tailor I like, but all in all I’d prefer to have the same team who made the garment work on it unless it’s a major price difference…

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Fair, but I also travel up to New England a couple of times a year to visit family. In all honesty I', sure I would be fine with anything in the 650g range too, I dont run particularly cold...I just prefer a heavier, heartier fabric (for that reason I'm avoiding more delicate fabrics like cashmere or camel) for an overcoat as this will almost certainly be my only overcoat order.

On the casual side (read: anything less than a full suit) I'm generally in my Barbour between mid-30s and mid-50s, between 0 to mid-30s I'm in a vintage USN peacoat, below 0 its technical wear only.

I think this overcoat would be used to cover the whole gambit from 0 to mid-40s, so I'd rather it be a bit hot on the high end than too cold on the low end...

The two fabrics I'm considering are a a 620/670g herringbone tweed from Magee for a SB notch top coat or a 710/760g navy wool from Dugdale for a DB ulster/flat peak overcoat

My 650g/lm melton navy DB paletot mostly sits in the closet. I think if I'd instead gotten a ~600g covert coat, I'd wear that far more. The melton is too much for me when it goes over 40 or 45F. Although it wears great when temps drop below freezing.

Another option I toy with is a 600g whipcord. That seems wearable in fall and spring, sort of like a heavy trench coat.

 

[Biolo-G]

Can anyone comment on the current prices of Divij's options? Had a very pleasant but somewhat confusing interaction with Divij recently. I was quoted $2400 for a 3-piece with no basted fitting, so i.e. the MTM option. I asked for a cloth that had a slight up-charge which is fair. He said it would've been $2100 for a typical VBC cloth. Divij said it would be an additional $900 for the basted fitting. The experience just seemed a bit hand-wavey since Divij didn't have a set price list anywhere, and he manually entered the price into his computer. I saw a video where Kirby Allison said $2100 would've been the basted fitting option, but I understand perhaps we're just living in inflationary times.

 

[classicalthunde]

Can anyone comment on the current prices of Divij's options? Had a very pleasant but somewhat confusing interaction with Divij recently. I was quoted $2400 for a 3-piece with no basted fitting, so i.e. the MTM option. I asked for a cloth that had a slight up-charge which is fair. He said it would've been $2100 for a typical VBC cloth. Divij said it would be an additional $900 for the basted fitting. The experience just seemed a bit hand-wavey since Divij didn't have a set price list anywhere, and he manually entered the price into his computer. I saw a video where Kirby Allison said $2100 would've been the basted fitting option, but I understand perhaps we're just living in inflationary times.

What fabric did you choose? Also, not sure what the charge is for an additional vest here but if its $500-ish that would put the 2-piece at $1900-ish which would seems to be in line with a slight increase due to inflation and rising cloth prices.

I've also been quoted higher over the phone or in conversation then the piece actually came out costing, I think if its conversational then he might just be making a estimate at the cloth needed

It seems that the basted fitting option cost has gone up, when I did it in spring 2019 it was an additional $400, which was worth it to me. But after the one basted fitting, I haven't done another one since the fit has been good since that even accounting for some weight fluctuations...

 

[-mM]

I'm still working on my fit for jackets and pants with Divij. I recently had an amazing navy suit comissioned from him using ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA fabric. I was stunned at the quality of the fabric when the suit arrived.

Unfortunately, this is my second jacket and first full suit by Divij and I'm struggling with a few things.

Divij seems to have a client base that is mid-50's to early-70s. I'm a 47 year old man in relatively good shape.

Divij seems to want to tailor pants to be worn higher than I wear mine.
I'm going to have to have him do the following:

Trousers: Lower the rise. Slim through the thigh
Jacket: Reduce the waist of the coat in the front only. (Approx. 1.5" total - 3/4" on each side)

The jacket is overly full through the body and the sleeve
I also need him to bring the point to point on the shoulders in

A key when working with Divij is to know that he uses a very structure shoulder. This makes a huge difference in the final fit of the garment. Know this when working with him as compared to other tailors.

Divij is younger, but his training and background is far more classic. It's also why Kirby Allison looks like he dresses like a 62 year old man rather than his age.

 

[ValidusLA]

High rise pants are not only for old men.
They are for people who understand proportion and classic tailoring.

 

[ericgereghty]

High rise pants are not only for old men.
They are for people who understand proportion and classic tailoring.

Ironically I (not technically old, but undoubtedly a geezer at heart) had to assure Divij multiple I wanted my pants as high as I indicated during our first meeting...and have been tooling around with wanting to take them even higher on subsequent orders.

 

[Texasmade]

High rise pants are not only for old men.
They are for people who understand proportion and classic tailoring.

I never understood how people would wear dress pants at their hips instead of the waist. It's really uncomfortable and looks sloppy. Jeans and chinos are different and should be worn at the hips.

 

[-mM]

Style is not hard and fast rules. Wearing your pants higher can work/does work. But, there are clear examples of tailoring excellence by wearing your trousers lower depending on several factors.

The entire point of professional tailoring is the tailor guiding you AND adjusting to a set of personal tastes that drive an end result that looks fantastic. Saying "wearing tailored pants high is what works. (as if it's the only way to do it)" is short sighted IMHO.

The reason I mention older men is me trying to be polite. I don't have a belly that juts out as most American men in that age group do have. Yes, wearing your pants higher has certain aesthetic advantages, but again, the slimmer the man, the lower that man typically wants to wear his pants.


The example I'm sharing on my suit, based on where I wear my pants, the crotch area in particular looks so long that it's ridiculous. It absolutely needs to be adjusted to be worn lower.

As for my jackets example, the typical athletic look that I'm looking for hasn't been built into the garment. It's close, but it's not finished. I know this because I've worked with other tailors whom have achieved this look vs Divij.

His house style is far more classic and structured than what I've worked with before. When I say he focuses on an older style, it's because nearly all of the clients I've seen him work with fall into the male 55+ age range. (And which he has actually told me is what the gross amount of his client base is)

 

[ValidusLA]

I'm 37. I have a drop 11.
Look of rise has far more to do with with your inseam vs your height than it does your "belly."

 

[-mM]

I'm 37. I have a drop 11.
Look of rise has far more to do with with your inseam vs your height than it does your "belly."

Again, I'm speaking about the OVERALL style and approach that he has/uses. NOT individuals.

It's a journey between individual need and house style.

 

[ValidusLA]

I never understood how people would wear dress pants at their hips instead of the waist. It's really uncomfortable and looks sloppy. Jeans and chinos are different and should be worn at the hips.

When I started doing commissions in my 20s I used to force my tailors to do lower rises. I was concerned with looking old and was used to jeans.
Now I never wear those old suits and regret the many many thousands of dollars spent on sloppy garments.

 

[ericgereghty]

Style is not hard and fast rules. Wearing your pants higher can work/does work. But, there are clear examples of tailoring excellence by wearing your trousers lower depending on several factors.

The entire point of professional tailoring is the tailor guiding you AND adjusting to a set of personal tastes that drive an end result that looks fantastic. Saying "wearing tailored pants high is what works. (as if it's the only way to do it)" is short sighted IMHO.

The reason I mention older men is me trying to be polite. I don't have a belly that juts out as most American men in that age group do have. Yes, wearing your pants higher has certain aesthetic advantages, but again, the slimmer the man, the lower that man typically wants to wear his pants.


The example I'm sharing on my suit, based on where I wear my pants, the crotch area in particular looks so long that it's ridiculous. It absolutely needs to be adjusted to be worn lower.

As for my jackets example, the typical athletic look that I'm looking for hasn't been built into the garment. It's close, but it's not finished. I know this because I've worked with other tailors whom have achieved this look vs Divij.

His house style is far more classic and structured than what I've worked with before. When I say he focuses on an older style, it's because nearly all of the clients I've seen him work with fall into the male 55+ age range. (And which he has actually told me is what the gross amount of his client base is)

Agree w/V. No need to be polite. I'm 35 w/drop 12-13 (depending on the state of ze gains lol), and absolutely do not agree with your slim = lower rise is better POV.

But, in any event, this is all subjective. I would be curious to see images of your ideal silhouette (ansd those of Divij's that fall short), if only as a way to frame your perspective.

I will say, whether you like or dislike Kirby's tailoring from Divij, the idea that he looks like a grandpa is silly.

 

[ValidusLA]

Agree w/V. No need to be polite. I'm 35 w/drop 12-13 (depending on the state of ze gains lol), and absolutely do not agree with your slim = lower rise is better POV.

But, in any event, this is all subjective. I would be curious to see images of your ideal silhouette (ansd those of Divij's that fall short), if only as a way to frame your perspective.

I will say, whether you like or dislike Kirby's tailoring from Divij, the idea that he looks like a grandpa is silly.

Ah I used to be a solid drop 12 and sometimes 13.

Many years ago. Alas I like cake.

 

[classicalthunde]

@-mM have you brought some pictures to Divij to show him what sort of house style you want? They're pretty flexible on house style but I've had the best results when showing them vs. describing relatively subtle stylistic details