The Ultimate "HARDCORE" Shoe Appreciation Thread (Bespoke only)

[chogall]

Are you sure they are truly seamless and not just a back or side seam?

Honestly, I dont remember its seamless wholecut or wholecut. All I am certain is that they do have a pair of wholecut stingray bespoke sample shoes.

 

[luk-cha]

If it is the brown sting ray BS samples frpm G&G then that has a rear seam, i think there also might be a deco in black ray too.

I remember that Tony told me they broke close to 20 needles trying to stitch them whilst making them, i honestly dont think sting ray would be possible todo seamless, nor croc or ostrich!

 

[mimo]

Ostrich is nice and flexible I think. But I'm sure those stingray wholecuts from G&G had a seam.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

FWIW, I have heard that a stingray whole cut can't be made larger than a certain shoe size because large stingray hides are few and far between.

 

[PCK1]

Its ok...these guys have got it covered

 

[thelonius]

I've worked with stingray...and I'd like to see an example of a true seamless wholecut in SR.

I'm not saying it can't be done but I don't know where the movement comes from. Blocking for a seamless wholecut isn't just about stretching, it's also about compression. The beads can't compress.

What kind of stingray are you, and others previously, talking about ?

 

[DWFII]



What kind of stingray are you, and others previously, talking about ?

Do a Bing search...Dasyatis Bleekeri...it all looks the same, to me, colour variations aside.

They don't get much bigger than 25" long...not all of it usable. The skins are covered with small "ivory" beads. Hell on needles. A nightmare for making straight, consistent, evenly spaced stitches.

 

[Son Of Saphir]



John Lobb St James. Fit is great as always. Still some finishing issues that I now think is part of the charm with these guys.

Good old solid style.

 

[Son Of Saphir]



Luk-Cha -
do you think that Cleverley is generally a better fitter than other makers? I like my Cleverley's, but I was mildly dissappointed by the fit and I've since been reluctant to order another pair. I finally decided to go in a different direction, but have wondered whether perhaps my expectations were simply too high.

To get good fit take good customer knowledge of foot and fit and it take good communication to maker.
Communication on fit take place at measure stage at fitting and follow up with email to make sure communication very good.
To learn fit and foot take good effort and art to learn.
Many man not no good on fit because he have rtw shoe and not no of good fit.
Many man think he no good fit,
but he not no good fit.
Customer guide maker on fit,
but to guide on fit is art form like 6 sense.

 

[thelonius]

Do a Bing search...Dasyatis Bleekeri...it all looks the same, to me, colour variations aside.

They don't get much bigger than 25" long...not all of it usable. The skins are covered with small "ivory" beads. Hell on needles. A nightmare for making straight, consistent, evenly spaced stitches.

Thank you. After some research I see several species are used, but maybe D bleekeri is the most frequent.

 

[Griffindork]



To get good fit take good customer knowledge of foot and fit and it take good communication to maker.
Communication on fit take place at measure stage at fitting and follow up with email to make sure communication very good.
To learn fit and foot take good effort and art to learn.
Many man not no good on fit because he have rtw shoe and not no of good fit.
Many man think he no good fit,
but he not no good fit.
Customer guide maker on fit,
but to guide on fit is art form like 6 sense.

Totally possible but i can tell you now after going down the road with other shoemakers cleverley's process doesn't lend itself to getting a perfect fit nearly as much as G&G or Lobb.

 

[luk-cha]



Totally possible but i can tell you now after going down the road with other shoemakers cleverley's process doesn't lend itself to getting a perfect fit nearly as much as G&G or Lobb.

Yes Daniel has changed the meassuring process, now it is alot more complex, also G&G are doing fitting shoes so it gives you a chance to double check the fit before the final shoes are made.

 

[chogall]

I do think fitting shoes are necessary, just an extra step to ensure a proper fit. If it won't be worn for a month or so, cut it open like the Parisan shops.

 

[Kuro]

Just not those stupid plastic try-ons that Lobb Paris uses from time-to-time. The worst was when I asked the workshop on rue Mogador to alter the toe of my last. They didn't want to do it without my also having a fitting with the plastic try-ons for around €350...

To get good fit take good customer knowledge of foot and fit and it take good communication to maker. ...

If so then Anthony Delos must be telepathic because I don't recall having to say anything really...

 

[chogall]

Kuro what happened to your JLP order that made them not fit?

I only had leather try-on. But I think there're japanese makers using plastic try-on shoes as well. Not sure how well those work.