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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

DorianGreen

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Screenshot (1447).png
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blewnote1

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Took my daughter to the daughter's choice dance at school, was a little warm for the matching dinner jacket so I wore my off white linen double breasted jacket. Not quite as correct as one with white buttons or jetted pockets, but I had fun with it anyway. It makes me want to get one with the proper details if I find one though for sure.

serious.jpg
silly.jpg
IMG_3701.jpg
 

Andy57

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Absolutely Smashing!
Who made the shirt? (Also, was it bespoke, MTM, or off the peg?j
Thank you! This shirt was made by Budd and is bespoke. It's a heavy silk in ivory.
 

cedarlake23

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Hi all,

I was able to find a vintage tuxedo in excellent condition and it's currently at the tailor. It's a black barathea fabric made of (I assume) wool/mohair and is traditionally styled - shawl lapel, jetted pockets, one button, no vents, no belt loops on the trousers, etc.

I now need to get a shirt, bow tie, and cummerbund. I have two questions for those: First, I want to stay traditional but am drawn to the simpler look of a covered placket shirt. Is that a faux pas? I know I can/should do what I want but would like to have a classic look. On the same note, for the bow tie and cummerbund, should I stick with satin since that's the lapel fabric? Or can I go faille and be OK? I haven't worn a bow tie before, so any advice on sizing compared to the lapel width, etc. would be appreciated, too.

Thanks!
 

Mute

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Hi all,

I was able to find a vintage tuxedo in excellent condition and it's currently at the tailor. It's a black barathea fabric made of (I assume) wool/mohair and is traditionally styled - shawl lapel, jetted pockets, one button, no vents, no belt loops on the trousers, etc.

I now need to get a shirt, bow tie, and cummerbund. I have two questions for those: First, I want to stay traditional but am drawn to the simpler look of a covered placket shirt. Is that a faux pas? I know I can/should do what I want but would like to have a classic look. On the same note, for the bow tie and cummerbund, should I stick with satin since that's the lapel fabric? Or can I go faille and be OK? I haven't worn a bow tie before, so any advice on sizing compared to the lapel width, etc. would be appreciated, too.

Thanks!
There's no hard rule against covered placket, though I personally prefer seeing the studs. Best practice for the tie and cumberbund is to match the fabric of your lapels. Sizing is more a matter of preference though too small or large could look less than idea. You'll have to experiment a bit to find what you like.
 

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